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Text Book 



WITH DIAGRAMS AND ILLUSTRATIONS EMBODYING THE BASIC PRINCIPLES 
OF DESIGNING, REPRODUCING AND GARMENT CUTTING; ALSO THE 
CONSTRUCTION OF GOWNS AND TAILORED SUITS, TO- 
GETHER WITH A COURSE IN PATTERN MAK- 
ING AS TAUGHT IN 

The Blackburn Studios 

AND BEING THE TEXTBOOK FOR THE USE AND APPLICATION OF THE 
BLACKBURN ADJUSTABLE DRAFTING DEVICE 

BY 

Juditha Blackburn 



PUBLISHED BY 
THE BLACKBURN COMPANY 



Copyrighted 1917 

by 

JUDITHA BLACKBURN 

Los Angeles. Cal. 



"1 Ha 8.0 



INTRODUCTION 

Iby the Author and Inventor 

After years given to study and after a wide and successful experience 
as a teacher and a lifetime spent in dressmaking and ladies' tailoring 
as a business, I have found a great need for a simple and practical system 
of reproducing, cutting and constructing garments. 

I have found the greatest need of the professional dressmaker is a 
system that would enable her to build a garment from the actual meas- 
urements of the individual and yet be simple enough for the home dress- 
maker, — a system whereby the young woman in her home could learn 
to create, or reproduce, and make her own gowns, carrying out her 
oivn individuality, giving her gowns a distinction and a touch of real 
personality that she could not secure in any other way. 

A system that would not only enable her to have a goivn that would 
be different from the ordinary, but would develop her natural talent 
and impart a knowledge, not from theory, but from practical experience 
of what is required to cut a perfect foundation from which a perfect 
garment may be constructed. 

These needs are met and will be found in the simple, adjustable 
drafting device which I have the pleasure of giving to the women of 
the world. May it be an everlasting joy and satisfaction to every one 
that uses it. 






©CU479659 



-M \%~Llf 

3EC ?4 1917 



Foundation Principles 

The foundation underlying every achievement must be flawless if 
the finished work is to reach perfection. 

This is true of every effort. Sure and lasting success must be 
built upon a true and solid foundation. 

Herein lies the failure of many professional as well as home dress- 
makers. 

One may have some knowledge of the art of construction and yet 
fail from an imperfect mastery of the foundation principles ; and though 
success does come it will cost dearly in unnecessary effort. 

The foundation principles that have been worked out in these 
chapters will readily be seen to be the foundation upon which all styles 
of garments are built. 

Styles change, but the principles never change; the foundation is 
always the same. 

When the foundation for a gown is cut to fit the individual for 
whom the gown is being constructed, no difficulty is experienced in 
making a perfect fitting garment. The success lies in the foundation. 

On these pages the principles are worked out and given in a 
manner that will enable the maker of the garment, with a little study, 
to go about her work in a masterly fashion, first making the foundation 
the size of the individual by actual measurement ; second, by reproducing, 
accurately and in their correct position, every line and curve of the 
design upon the individual ; and all this with the least amount of effort 
and with the satisfaction of being master of the art you have chosen 
and the profession you represent. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

MEASUREMENTS 7 . g 

Measurement for Practice . .. 13 

ADJUSTING THE DRAFTING DEVICE 

to Measurements _ _ 9-10-11-12 

LININGS 

Dress Linings 14 

French Linings 14 

Lining with one Dart IS 

tull length Princess Linings _ » 43 

BLOUSES 

Plain .Blouses with Sailor Collar 17 

Drop V oke with .Rolling Collar 18 

Blouse with Gibson Plait _ 20 

Blouse with Drop Shoulder 21 

Kimona Blouse , 22 

SKIRTS 

Assembling the Drafting Device 23 

Scale for the Division of Measurements 25 

Scale for the Width for the Bottom of Skirts 25 

The Two Piece Skirt 26 

For High Waist Line 27 

Making a Two Piece Skirt , 27 

Plackets _ _ 28 

How to Finish a Skirt 28 

The Three Piece Skirt ^ 29 

The Three Piece Skirt No. 1 _ , „ 29 

The Three Piece Skirt No. 2 29 

The Four Piece Skirt No. 1 __ 30 

The Four Piece Skirt No. 2._ , 31 

The Six Gored Skirt , 32 

The Seven Gored Skirt , _ _ 33 

For the High Abdomen , _ 34 

Maternity Skirt , 34 

The Plaited Skirt 34 

The Draped Skirt , _ 35 

The Cascade Drape , 36 

The Ripple Circular Skirt , _ 37 

SLEEVES 

The Two Piece Dress Sleeve _ _ 38 

Making the Two Piece Dress Sleeve _ 39 

Dress Sleeve with Dart to the Elbow 39 

The Bishop Sleeve „ 40 

The Cuff L 40 

Cutting the Material „ _ 40 

The Tailored Shirt Waist Sleeve and the Suit Coat Sleeve 40-41 

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS 

Changing the Adjustment of High Chest 45 

Changing the Adjustment for a Figure that is Sho rt from Armpit to Shoulder - 55 

REPRODUCING 44 

COATS 

Sport Coats _ _ 46 

The Box Coat .' 47 

A Popular Long Coat „. _ 48 

The Raglan Coat ^ 

The Tailored Suit Coat 50-51-52-53 

Padding the Lapel and Coat Collar 52 

The Coat with a Seam from the Front and the Ba c k of Armseye 54 

CAPES 

The Military Cape 55 

The Circular Cape „ 56 

TAILORED DRESS "" 7" 57 

HOW TO MAKE BUTTON HOLES 58 

HELPS FOR HOME DRESSMAKERS 59-60 

HOW TO DRESS BECOMINGLY 61 

DRAPING GOWNS «2 



CHAPTER I 
TAKING MEASUREMENTS 

The initial step in the art of dresscutting and designing, and one upon which depends, to a 
large extent, the degree of success attained, is the system of taking measurements. 

In so much as it is seldom necessary, under this system, to make a paper pattern before cutting 
the cloth, and only requires that the Adjustable Drafting Device be placed directly upon the material 
and chalked or traced, ready for the shears, it is essential that measurements be most precise. The 
device scales to the fraction of inches; no use for a tape measure except in one or two cases, or to 
verify measurements. The beginner is advised to do this. See that your tape is an accurate one. 

Fasten a cord around the natural waist of your model, for a waist line, from which to take 

measurements. This may of course be dis- 
pensed with when you shall have become pro- 
ficient in gauging with the eye. 



Closely following diagram 1, you will 
now proceed, writing down each measure- 
ment as you take it, upon the blank especially 
provided for the purpose. 

1. — For Neck Measure. 

Measure around the base of the neck; 
that is, at the line where it joins the body. 

2. — Bust Point Measure. 

From the projecting bone at the base of 
the neck in back, over the shoulder and down 
to the bust line in front. 

3. — Shoulder. 

Measure just back of the crest of the 
shoulder, from the base of the neck to the tip 
of the shoulder. 

4. — Around Bust. 

Place the tape measure around the largest 
part of the bust, close up under the arm and across the shoulder blades, in a straight line to the 
center of the back. Standing directly in the rear of your model, hold the union of the tape measure, 
that is, as you bring it together, firmly between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, while with 
your right, thus freed, you run the forefinger under the tape from back to front, to ascertain the 
proper amount of fullness required. This then gives you what is called the Bust Line, which, with 
the Waist Line already determined, are important in the ascertainment of other measurements. 

5. — The Front Measurement. 

Is taken from the base of the neck in front down to the waist line. 
6. — Length Under Arm. 

From the armpit (not too high to fit overly snug when waist is completed; exercise a little judg- 
ment in this regard) straight down to the waist line. 

7. — Length of Back. 

From the bone at the base of the neck behind, straight down to the waist line. 

(7) 




Diagram 1. — Taking measurements. 



8. — Around Armseye Measurement. 

Starting from the tip of the shoulder, around under the arm and back to the tip of the shoulder. 
This armseye measurement should be neither too tight nor too loose. Use discretion to secure com- 
fortable arm action. 

9. — Sleeve from Shoulder to Elbow. 

From the shoulder, with arm slightly bent, as in diagram 1, and from where the line for the 
armseye was taken, to the tip of the elbow. 

10. — From Elbow to Wrist. 

From the tip of the elbow, just taken, to the bone or lines of the wrist. In taking this bend the 
elbow slightly. 

1 1. — Around Elboiv. 

Bend the arm slightly and take the measurement around the elbow. It will be noted that this 
measurement must be greater than if the arm had been held straight. 

12. — Around Hand. 

Now holding the thumb straight inside of the hand, measure around the largest part of the hand. 

13. — Inside Length. 

With the arm extended at a height, in line with the shoulder, and pointing almost, but not quite, 
directly in front of the person, take the inside measurement from the body, where the line of the arms- 
eye was taken, to the wrist line. This length, it will be noted, should be less than the combined out- 
side measurements. 

14.— Waist. 

Take this measurement around the waist line, and as tightly as you desire the finished garment. 

15. — Hip Measurement. 

Next take the circumference at the largest part of the hips, and as loosely as desired in the finished 
garment. 

16. — From Waist to Hip Line. 

This measurement is taken directly in front, from the waist line straight down to the hip line. 
17. — Length of Front. 

From the waist line measure directly in front, the distance to the floor. 
18. — Right and Left Sides. 

Right and left sides from waist line to floor. 
19.— Back Length. 

Lastly, from the waist line to the floor, directly in the back. 

It is possible by studying before a mirror to take one's own measurements by following the above 
rules and fastening a weight to your tape measure, while standing erect, you may easily take your 
own skirt length measurement, from the waist line to the floor. 

NOTE : — In determining the length of the skirt when finished, subtract from these four length 
measurements the number of inches it is desired to have the skirt from the floor. 

(8) 



CHAPTER II 
ADJUSTING TO MEASUREMENTS 

Upon your table or other flat surface, assemble the various parts of the Adjustable Drafting 
Device, pertaining to the waist. The five component parts of which are styled and numbered re- 
spectively as follows: Center Front (Diagram 1), Side Front Section (Diagram 1), Side Back Sec- 
tion (Diagram 2), Center Back (Diagram 2), and Sleeve (Diagram 3). 

Upon each of these divisions you will note the name of its section, to aid in identification; also 
observe the scale of inches on each bar or groove, where adjustment to size is to be made. 

Although, on pages 7 and 8, you familiarized yourself thoroughly with the procedure of taking 
measurements, and have those of yourself or model ready for use; however, lay these aside until we 
have laid out the Device to several different sizes to assure a complete understanding of the adjust- 
ments. 

The value of this practice work will be easily apparent, in that you arc thus given a thorough 
working knowledge, as a foundation, in making adjustments and arranging the device to correspond 
with the multitudinous shapes and measurements which in your future work 5011 may anticipate. 

By following the instructions carefully and referring to the illustrations, you will experience no 
difficulty in attaining the right results from these measurements, nor of those that are to follow. 

Remember this is a mechanical device that works with utmost precision. It matters not what 
shape the body has been subjected to by nature; if your measurements are accurately taken, and the 
adjustments as accurately made, your finished pattern will be a perfect fit. 

So learn the theoretical use of the device thoroughly; understand each line, and how each section 
should look to be in the proper position, and all needful knowledge will follow with surprising ease. 

We will, therefore, take for consideration the medium size, the measurements of which we will 
assume to be as follows: 

Length under arm 8" Elbow to wrist 11" 

Length of back 15" Around the elbow 13" 

Around armseye 16" Length inside arm 17)/" 

Waist 28" Around the hand 9" 

Length of front 15" Shoulder to elbow 12" 

Center Front Section 

Place this section, Diagram 1, in front of you, with the measurements for the above medium 
model at your left, and begin to make adjustments as follows: Set the shoulder bar at 6" (See C, 
Diagram 1). [Note — This mark (") after a figure will hereafter mean inches.] Then set the 
neck adjustment at the center front to 14", as shown by A, Diagram 1. Next, the shoulder bar on 
the neck at 14" (B, Diagram 1), always setting to the edge indicated by the arrow. Note very 
carefully Diagram 4. In that, you must observe that the adjustment is made on the outside edge, 
where you will trace your outline, and the figure to which you are setting must always be in the 
clear. Get this firmly in your mind, for an error in this regard will cause you annoyance, and there 
need be none. 

Now, ere we proceed further with the Front Section, place the Center Back Section (See Dia- 
gram 2) also before you, and set the neck at 14". (See O, Diagram 2.) Then taking your tape, as- 
certain the length of the arc X-Y, as shown in Diagram 2. In this model, that arc measures 2^2 ". 
Place the tape on the Center Front Section, as shown in Diagram 1, in such manner that the meas- 
urement 2j/2" is added to and becomes a continuation of the neck (See Diagram 1), and having 
loosened all adjustment screws below the neck, that all bars may slide easily, raise or lower the bust 
line until the desired length from back of neck X to bust point O, which in this instance is 14", is 
registered in the Groove of the bust line bar, as at O, Diagram 1. Tighten all four adjustment 
screws. 

As shown in Diagram 1, the bust line bar should be set at right angles to the center front. This, 
when completed, gives you by the first act the depth of front from neck to bust line, A-M, and by 

(9) 



Neck 


14" 


Back of neck to bust line... 
Shoulder 


. 14" 
6" 


Around bust 


38" 



the second, the proper angle to the center front. Then set at D, Diagram 1, to bust size 38" and 
make sure that all screws above the bust line are well tightened. 

It is necessary now to complete the length of the front A-N, which in this model is 15". You will 
note that in adjusting your bust line bar, at right angles to the center front, it automatically gave 
you the upper or neck to bust line measurement A-M. It only requires that you raise or lower the 
waist line bar that the measurement at F (See Diagram 1), added to that already secured above, gives 
a total equal to your length of front measurement, in this instance 15". Verify this with your tape 
measure. Or you may use your tape measure to secure it in the first place. It is only necessary that 
the length from A to N be 15", however you get it. 

Set the waist line bar at 28" (See E, Diagram 1) and with the added injunction, that the waist 
line bar is to be parallel to the bust line bar, tighten all screws top and bottom and you have com- 
pleted this section. 

Side Front Section 

Now place the side front section 
close up to the center front sec- 
tion, with the shoulder bar of the 
side front section on a continuous 
line with the shoulder bar of the 
center front section, as shown in 
Diagram 1. Adjust the shoulder 
bar to 6" (shoulder measure- 
ment). See L, Diagram 1. 

Raise or lower the armseye bar 
until you have it set at 16" (arms- 
eye measurement). See J, Dia- 
gram 1. This must also be done 
at K, Diagram 1, setting it at 16". 
Tighten all nuts as adjustments 
are made. 

Next get the length from the 
shoulder to the bust line. To do 
this, loosen the screws on the front 
of the side front section between 
the shoulder and bust line and raise 
or lower the bust line bar until the 
length from the shoulder to the 
bust line corresponds with the cen- 
ter front section, that is, C-S must 
be equal in length to C-D. 

Tighten the remaining screws 
above the bust line. Follow this 
by setting the bust line bar at 38". 

See G, Diagram 1. Then adjust 
Diagram 1.— Center front and side front sections set to (he undw arm of sjde length meas . 

measurement. 

(10) 




urement to 8". See M, Diagram 1. Set the waist line bar at 28" (waist measurement) (See H, Dia- 
gram 1 ) , and securely tighten the screws. 

Then, in the same manner as set forth above, raise or lower the waist line until the length S-H side 
front section corresponds with D-E of the center front section. See Diagram 1. 

Note carefully, that you may always remember, how this is done, and set the completed sections 
aside. 



Side Back Section 

Set the shoulder at 6" (shoulder 
measurement). See A, Diagram 2. 
Then, as in the side front section, 
raise or lower the upper armseye 
bars and the lower, respectively, to 
16" (armseye measurement. See 
B and C, Diagram 2. This de- 
termines the bust line bar across 
the shoulder blades. The bust line 
bar should be at right angles to 
the side. Place the bust line bar 
(See D, Diagram 2) at 38" (bust 
measurement) and the waist line 
bar (See F, Diagram 2) at 28" 
(waist measurement). 

The under arm adjustment 
should be made at E ( See Diagram 
2) to 8" under arm measurement. 

We must now leave this section, 
with length D-F undetermined 
(See D-F, Diagram 2) until we 
have completed the center back sec- 
tion. 

Center Back Section 

Now place the center back sec- 
tion close up to the side back sec- 
tion with the shoulder bars of the 
center back section on a continuous 
line with the shoulder bar of the 
side back section, as shown in Dia- 
gram 2. 




Diagram 2. — Side back and center back sections set 
to measurement. 



The next adjustment at O, Diagram 2, having been made to determine the bust line on the 
center front section, it is not necessary to disarrange it. Set the shoulder bar at 6" (shoulder meas- 
urement). See J, Diagram 2. Next, adjust the bust line bar to 38" (See K, Diagram 2) and the 
waist line bar to 28", the given waist measurement. See M, Diagram 2. 

01) 



Now having placed the shoulder bars of the two sections so they form a straight and unbroken 
line (See Diagram 2), loosen the four screws above the bust line, and holding the shoulder bars se- 
curely with the left hand, raise or lower the bust line bar until the length J-K, back section, corre- 
sponds with the length A-D, side back section, and forms a straight and continuous bust line. See 
Diagram 2. Tighten the screws. This adjustment also gives the upper measurement of the center 
back at G; therefore, raise or lower the waist line bar to give a total back length measurement of 15". 
See adjustment H, Diagram 2. Adjust the waist line bar so it is parallel with the bust line bar and 
tighten the screws. 

Now, in a manner similar to that used in determining S-H, Diagram 1, raise or lower the waist 
line bar in the side back section until D-F and K-M correspond, and are of equal length. See that 
waist line bars are continuous. Tighten all screws of both sections, which are thereby completed. 
Sleeve 

Before starting, loosen all adjustment screws, then, at the top of the sleeve, make the adjustment 
for the upper and under sleeve to armseye measurement, which in this instance is 16", A and A, 
Diagram 3. Following this, set the shoulder to elbow bar (B, Diagram 3), at 12" (as in given meas- 
urements). From elbow to wrist must be 11". (See C, Diagram 3, as also in given measurements.) 



For around the elbow, set both upper and 
under adjustments (D and D, Diagram 3) at 
13", that is, setting both the outer edge of the 
under sleeve and the elbow bar of the upper 
sleeve, at 13" (elbow measurement). Around 
the hand, upper and under sleeve adjustments 
(E and E, Diagram 3) to 9". 

Now lay the Sleeve Device in a. position, 
causing the center line X-N and the elbow bar 
M-N to be at perfect right angles to each 
other. The corner of your table will aid in 
doing this correctly. Also be sure that the 
corners (R and S, Diagram 3) are lined up 
properly and even. 

As in both center front and center back 
sections, this lining up of outer line X-N and 
the elbow bar M-N gives the upper sleeve 
measurement, from shoulder to elbow bar, at 
the front of the device. See F, Diagram 3. 
It becomes necessary, therefore, to raise or 
lower part of the sleeve, so that the aggregate 
measurements will equal the given inside 
length of 173/2". This adjustment takes place 
at G, Diagram 3. 




Diagram 3. — Setting the sleeve de- 
vice to measurement. 



(12) 



PRACTICE WORK 

Three other and complete sets of measurements follow, to which you will adjust the Drafting 
Device, with the same degree of diligence and care as in the one just completed. This is the founda- 
tion work for the entire system of dresscutting, except for skirts, which will be given in the following 
chapters. 

Turn back to the beginning of the subject of adjustment, and substitute these measurements, each 
in turn. At the completion of which you will be sufficiently practiced and experienced to take the 
more advanced and actual work. 



No. 2 

Neck W/ 2 " 

Back of neck to bust point 14J/" 

Shoulder 6" 

Around the bust 40" 

Length of front 16" 

Length under arm 7^" 

Length of back 15" 

Around armseye 17" 

Shoulder to elbow 13" 

Elbow to wrist 12" 

Around elbow 12" 

Length inside arm 17" 

Around the hand 8j^" 

Around waist 28" 



No. 3 

Neck 15" 

Back of neck to bust point 15 x /i" 

Shoulder 6>4" 

Around the bust 42" 

Length of front 17" 

Length under arm 9" 

Length of back 16" 

Around armseye 18" 

Shoulder to elbow 13" 

Elbow to wrist 1054" 

Around elbow 13" 

Length inside arm ISV/' 

Around the hand 9" 

Around waist 30" 




You^ill {pace ihe Outside 
>6 of your sections 
rsfor set your ad- 
ju\tmen±s to -the Outer 
and never to ihe 
INNER EDGE (See arYtxfj) 



\S>' IN |C0 



Let the nurnberset 
to, be in the clean 
Example above, is 
set io6". 



Diagram 4. 



No. 4 

Neck 16" 

Back of neck to bust point \5V 2 " 

Shoulder 7" 

Around the bust 48" 

Length of front 17" 

Length under arm 8" 

Length of back 15^" 

Armseye 19" 

Shoulder to elbow 12" 

Around waist 36" 

Elbow to wrist 10" 

Around elbow 15" 

Length inside arm XlVi" 

Around hand 9" 



(13) 



CHAPTER III 
DRESS LININGS 

Step by step, we have become familiar with the adjustments of the Drafting Device to measure- 
ments, so now we are qualified to draft a plain French lining. 

Begin by setting the Drafting Device to the 38 size, with which we have been practicing. 
Front Section 

Place the center front section upon the paper, muslin or whatever material you may use for the pur- 
pose, and far enough back from the edge, in front, to provide a sufficient hem. Two inches is a good 
allowance. Now trace all around the outside edge, allowing a one-inch seam on the shoulder, half an 

inch at the neck and at the side, and two inches below the 
waist line. See Diagram 2. Mark the bust point and waist 
line and carefully cut out the resultant section. 

Side Front 

As for the front, place the side front section on the drafting 
material, and trace all around the outside edge, allowing one- 
inch seam on the shoulder and under the arm, half an inch at 
the armseye and in front. 

Mark bust point and waist line as before, and allow two 
inches below the waist line. Carefully cut out your section. 
See Diagram 2. 




-French lining. 



Diagram 1. 

Side Back 

Place the Device on the drafting material as in the two former instances, and trace all around 
the outside. Mark sufficient allowance for a one-inch seam on the shoulder, and under the arm, and 
half an inch on the back, and allow two inches below the waist line. 

Mark the bust line over the shoulder blade, and also the waist line, allowing two inches, as before, 
below the waist line. Proceed to cut out the section. See Diagram 2. 
Back Section 

Proceed as for the other sections, tracing all around the outside edge, but allowing a one-inch 
seam on the shoulder, half an inch at the back of the neck, and a like seam at the center back and side. 

Mark the bust line over the back and waist line in its proper location, and complete your cutting. 





Diagram 2. — The four sections of the French lining. 
(14) 



Plain Lining With One Dart 

You may use your own measure- 
ments or the measurements of your model 
for this lining. 

Place the front section on the paper, 
two inches back from the edge for hem 
allowance. Then the side front close up 
to the front section, from shoulder to 
bust point, as in Diagram 3. Trace all 
around the outside, and mark both the 
bust point and waist line. 

Chalk in the outline between the 
center front and side front sections, thus 
allowing for a dart, as in Diagram 4. 
Also, allow two inches below the waist 

Diagram 3 Drafting device set to measurement for a J!" 6 ' and / ou are read y t0 cut See 

plain lining with darts. Diagram 4. 

Back 

Place the center back section on the edge of the paper, or on the fold of your lining. You will, 
of course, have observed that there is no seam in the back of a plain lining. 

Then place the side back section beside the back section, and close up, from shoulder to bust line. 
See Diagram 3. Trace all around the outside, allowing a half-inch seam on the back of the neck, 
and one-inch seams on the shoulder and under the arm. 

Also trace between the back and side back sections, from the waist line to the bust line, as in 
Diagram 4, leaving the space in between for a dart. Indicate both bust point and waist line, and 
allow two inches below the waist line. Cut carefully. See Diagram 4. 

MATERIAL SUITABLE FOR LININGS 

For the present style of gowns it is only necessary to have some thin material, upon which to 
build the gown, such, for instance, as bobinette, thin lining lawn or thin silk, conforming with the 




material that we are using in the gown. 





Diagram 4. — Lining with darts, traced and. 
ready to cut. 



Diagram 4. — Lining with darts. 



(15) 



How to Bone a Seam in the Lining 

When the style of garment requires a heavy, strong lining and boning, the soft feather bone may 
be sewed on with the machine, resulting in a much stronger seam than was procured by the fancy 
stitches we formerly employed. 

Always hold the bone slightly looser than the seam, or, to be more explicit, stretch the seam 
onto the bone. This will insure a nice, smooth waist line. 

To Finish Seams on the Lining 

Bind with a seam binding, or stitch flat in a French welt seam. See Diagram X, page 18. Then 
after the seam has been sewed with the machine, trim off one side of it with the shears, and fold in 
the other edge of the seam, that is, the one not trimmed, over the one that has been trimmed, as in 
Diagram X, on page 18, and baste down flat, completing the stitch with the machine. 

When fitting a blouse, never cut out the arm hole or neck, more than that allowed by your pat- 
tern. Snip the cloth a bit when it feels tight, and later, before attaching the collar or sleeve, trim 
out what is necessary. 

How to Sew Hooks and Eyes on a Lining 

Hooks must always be sewed on to the right side and eyes on the left. Sew the hooks back from 
the edge of the lining about a quarter of an inch; with the spacing between each, one and one-half 
inch. This will give sufficient strength to the lining. 

When the hooks have all been sewed on, turn the edge of the lining back, over the ends of the 
hooks, where thread stitches appear, and hem down evenly. This will make a neat finish. 

Sew the eyes on the wrong side of the edge, with just enough of projection to catch the hooks. 
Then turn the edge of the lining over the eyes where the threads show. 

Sewing a Shield Protector Into the Armhole 

Sew in four places; just through the binding, but with care, lest the rubber is punctured. 
This would permit moisture to penetrate through to the gown. 

Then sew the part that goes in side of the sleeve to the seam of the sleeve ; the outside to the 
under arm seam of the blouse, and, the other two ends also to the seam of the sleeve, just stitching 
through the binding and seam of the sleeve. 

Again a word of caution: Do not get the shield tighter than the sleeve seam, or you will find 
you have made the armhole both tight and uncomfortable. 



(16) 



CHAPTER IV 



BLOUSES 

Cutting and Making 

One of the most essential adjuncts of a woman's wardrobe is her blouse. If she has a few good 
looking blouses to wear with her Tailored skirt, she will at all times look well dressed. 

There is such a variety of styles at present too, and such a wonderful assortment of materials from 
which to select, that no woman need be without. 

Since the hemstitching machine has come into vogue, for finishing the seams, and adding much to the 
trimming, the problem of blouse expense and making, has to a great extent become solved. 

After having become familiar, therefore, with the adjustment features of the Drafting Device, and 
with setting it to measurements as given in the practice work, you will substitute your own measure- 
ments for those assumed, and set the Device accordingly. 



BLOUSE WITH FLAT SAILOR COLLAR 

Place the center front section upon the cloth, and far 
enough back from the edge, to allow for hem, any width 
you may desire, two inches or more. 

Then place the side front section beside the center 
front, as shown clearly in Diagram 2. These outlined 
as they are, would give you a tight lining. Remember 
that the Adjustable Drafting Device is set to individual 
measurements, you must learn to make adequate allow- 
ance for whatever fullness is needed to make the blouse 
fit loosely. 




Diagram 1. — Plain blouse with 
flat sailor collar. 

We must also consider the 
size of the model, in that the 
blouse designed for a tall, 
slender woman, will require 
more fullness than the one 
for a short, stout one. 

Chalk in the center front 
line, neck and shoulders. 
Place a mark out from the 
armseye a half to one inch. 
(See A, Diagram 2), and 
from the waist line XVz to 
2J/2 inches, (See B, Diagram 
2). 




Diagram 2. — Plain blouse. 



(17) 



Then move the side front section to the new size, thus determined, and mark armseye, under arm and 
waist line- allowing 3 inches below the waist line for looseness and fullness. Also mark off an inch 
seam on the shoulder and under the arm; half inch seams on neck and at armseye. See D.agram 2. 

Likewise place the center back and side back sections together, with the center back upon the 
fold of the cloth. Outline the neck and shoulder, and make the same allowance under the arm, and 
at the waist, as that given at A and B, on the front just described, and move the side back section 
over to those new points. Mark the armseye under arm line and waist line also allowing 3 inches 
below the waist line, as before; one inch seems at shoulder and under arm; half inch seams at neck 
and armseye. See Diagram 2. ,_/ 

How to Cut a Flat Sailor Collar 

Pin the shoulder seams together as illustrated in Diagram 3; 
if a V neck is desired, mark 3 inches down from the front of the 
neck, which makes a very good depth for the average blouse. 




Then take a piece of paper and placing the edge upon the center 
back at the neck (See X-Y, Diagram 3), trace the line of the neck 
and down the line for the V, and shape it to any desired size or 
curves. See Diagram 3 for two styles illustrated: one a flat sailor 
collar, and the other pointed in front and rounded at the back. 

How to Make This Blouse Diagram 3.— Flat sailor collar. 

Baste the shoulder and under arm seams, and sew with a machine. If very sheer material, use 
French seams. Hem the bottom and put a / 2 -inch wide elastic inside of the hem, or, make a band 
1 inch wide and attach it to the back, leaving the front of the blouse loose, to be held in with the 
band, when fastened around the waist. _ 

Then baste the collar onto the neck, and finish with a bias piece, cut >4 inch wide. Use any 
style of sleeve you may desire. For sleeves see Chapter VI. 
How to Make a French Seam 

First sew the seam up, on the right side of the cloth, 
then with the shears cut the seam off close to the stitching. 
Turn to the wrong side and sew the seam again. This 
will cover up the raw edge, putting it on the inside of 
the seam. See Diagram X, page 18. 





Diagram 4. — Blouse 
with drop yoke in 
front. 



Diagram X. — French seams. 

Another French seam is made as follows: Baste the 
seam on the wrong side of the garment, and trim off one 
side, close to the basting. Then fold the other side of 
the seam over the one just trimmed off, and baste. If the 
stitching on the seam is done on a machine, it can be 
run through the hemming attachment, providing silk or 
other firm material is being used, thereby eliminating the 
second basting. See Diagram X, page 18. 
A Fly Front for a Blouse 

When finishing the front of a blouse, and not desir- 
ing the buttons and buttonholes to show, make a band one 
inch wide and sew it on, underneath the plait. Put your 
button holes in this and buttons on in the usual way. 

(18) 



Blouse with Drop Yoke in Front 

To cut this blouse, adjust the Drafting Device to your 
measurements, in the usual way. Lay the front section 
upon the cloth, far enough from the edge to make a good 
seam, or plait, whichever you desire; 2 inches are used 
in this illustration. Now place the side front section in 
a line parallel with the center front and separated from 
it by a space of four inches at the bust line. (See Dia- 
gram 5.) This is the allowance made for gathers. 

Next measure down from the tip of the shoulder, as at 
C to D, Diagram 5, a depth of 2* inches, and likewise, 
down from the shoulder at the neck line from A to B, 
a similar depth. Draw a line across from B to D, and 
trace all around outside of the Device, allowing three 
inches below the waist line. Provide the necessary allow- 
ances, under the arm for more fullness— if a very full 
blouse is desired. See Diagram 5. 

Conclude by removing the Device, and mark off the 
usual seam allowances before cutting J^-inch at the arms- 
eye and shoulder; 1-inch under the arm. 

For the back of the bliuse (Diagram 6), place the cen- 




1NH J.SIV/A\$ 



Q 

o 




Diagram 6. — Back of the blouse 
with yoke in front. 



Diagram 5. — Blouse with the drop 
yoke in front. 

ter back section upon the fold of the cloth, with the side 
back section close up beside it and the shoulder bars 
forming a straight and unbroken line. 

Proceed to trace all around the outline as just de- 
scribed for the front and allowing J^-inch at the armseye 
and y 2 -'mc\\ at the back of the neck. Draw the waist 
line, allowing 3 inches below for length, and remove the 
drafting device. 

Arrange this outline, just drawn, as shown in Dia- 
gram 6, and placing the shoulder of the front section 
close up to the shoulder line of the back section just out- 
lined, continue the neck line by following the neck of 
the center front section. See Diagram 6. 

Put the front section aside, and taking the side 
front section, lay it with the shoulder bar upon the shoul- 
der line of the side back section, and continue the armseye 
by following the armseye of the side front section. See 
Diagram 6. 

Next measure down 2j/£ inches from the shoulder at 
the neck. See A, Diagram 6, to B, Diagram 6. Also 
measure down 2 l / 2 inches from the shoulder tip. See D, 
Diagram 6 to E. 

The principle carried out is to subtract from the front 
and add to the back, as will be clearly seen in Diagram 6. 
The depth of yoke can obviously be more or less according 
to individual taste or as fashion dictates. 
How to Baste and Finish 

Gather the fullness at the front, to fit the yoke, and 
sew together. Then baste and sew the underarm seam. 
If very sheer material is being used, make a French seam. 
With heavier goods, however, finish neatly on the reverse 
side and turn back the hem at the center front. A plait 
may be substituted if preferred. For collar or sleeve any 
desired style may be adapted. 

(19) 




Diagram 7.- How to draft rolling collars 



How to Cut a Rolling Collar 

When a blouse has been cut out, pin the shoulder 
seams together and cut a V down from the neck line, to 
the desired depth (see Diagram 7), which we will say, 
for an example, is 3 inches. 

Whereupon, place a piece of paper over the blouse, 
with its edge upon the fold of the back, as in the illus- 
tration from X to X, Diagram 7, six inches in length. 
Now trace the neck line, as you would for a flat collar. 
Determining the Roll 

From the natural shoulder line, as at A, Diagram 7, 
mark down to B at the V point in front, which is 3 inches 
from the front of the neck. For a slight roll, draw a 
line from the shoulder point at A, to C. An increased 
roll may be obtained by merely widening the angle, so 
from A to C, or D to F. You will notice how straight 
is the line from the back of the neck to F. The straighter 
you have this line, the more the collar will roll in the back. 



Some rolling collars are just a straight piece of cloth, cut to the length 
of the size of the neck. The width at the back of the rolling collar, given 
in this illustration, is 14 inches across; but, when cutting the half, make 
your draft 7 inches from X to H, and draw a line from H to the point 
at the front from which you are working. 

Work out on paper, various sizes with different shaped corners, excel- 
lent collar practice, and you will fast become expert at this highly important 
and fascinating part of blouse making. 

Collars may be made double or hemstitched, picoted on the edge, or 
hemmed, and an edge of lace sewed on for a finish. 

BLOUSE WITH A GIBSON PLAIT 

This blouse is always worn ; is stylish in cut and becoming in its lines. 
Particularly is it adapted to the large woman. 

Invariably it makes a good looking tailored blouse, or, is equally suita- 
ble for a house dress. May be cut out of any kind of cloth. 

-- ^— *- ^ 




Diagram 8. — Blouse 
with Gibson plait. 




Diagram 9. — Blouse with Gibson plait. Suitable for large woman, also good tailored blouse. 

(20) 



Diagram 9 shows both the front and back as they will appear when cut out, and ready to baste. 
Set the drafting device to your measurement in the usual manner and place the center front of the 
device 5 inches back from the edge of the cloth. See Diagram 9. 

Having done this, trace for the center front, including the outline of the neck. Then measure 
down the center front from the base of the neck 4 inches, and from this point draw a line to B, 
which in turn must be connected with A. See A-B in Diagram 9. 

Similarly place the side front section upon the cloth, as you would for a plain blouse, and trace 
the length of the shoulder. Follow this by laying a plait \y 2 inches deep, as shown between points 
X and X at the waist line of diagram 9. Pin your goods down and proceed to complete your side 
front section outline at armseye and under the arm. Allow three inches below the waist for length 
and fullness. 

The back of this blouse is outlined and the plait is laid in the same manner as for the front. 
(See Diagram 9.) For tailored shirt waist sleeve see Chapter VI. 

The collar for this blouse, (see diagram 9), must be fashioned to the size of the neck and may be 
done as follows: Cut a piece of muslin the length of the given neck measurement, and as deep as 
you desire your collar to be. Follow the dimensions given in the illustration. Conclude by fitting 
to the neck, getting the correct size before cutting the cloth. 

A Gibson plait may be stitched all the way down the back, but looks better in front, just stitched 
above the break at the armseye. Note the star on the front plait. Diagram 9. 

This blouse may be worn with any style of skirt, such as a two, three, four or six gored skirt. 
For the stout or large woman, I would give preference to the six gore. 

A medium sized blouse of this kind will require 2^4 yards of material. 

BLOUSE WITH DROP SHOULDER AND SURPLUS FRONT 

Begin by drafting to the desired measurements a plain lining with 
darts. From this lining as a foundation, draft the blouse as shown in dia- 
gram 1 1 . 

Draw the line for the shoulder from the base of the neck straight out 
to three inches beyond the tip of the shoulder. This gives the shoulder a 
drop of three inches as clearly shown in diagram 11. 

This diagram shows the line for the under arm seam to be just below 
the armseye, two inches beyond the under arm seam of the plain lining. 




Diagram 10. — Blouse 
with dropped shoulder. 

This may be more or less, accord- 
ing to the amount of fullness de- 
sired in the blouse. Copy the lines 
of the diagram, using good judg- 
ment, and no difficulty will be ex- 
perienced. 

The surplus front is oudined 
by drawing a line from the base 
of the neck at the shoulder and 
crossing the center front line of 
the plain lining at the bust point, 
continue down to three inches be- 
low the waist line. The amount 
of fullness below the bust point is 
optional. The back of this blouse 
is outlined in a similar manner as 
shown by Diagram 1 1 . Make the 
usual allowance for seams and cut. 




Diagram 11. — Blouse with dropped shoulder. 
(21) 



Sew the seams of the lining first, then sew the sleeves into the lining. Next sew the seams of 
the blouse and finish the drop shoulder with a cord. Then mark the center back of the blouse at 
the neck and the center back of the collar and baste the collar on carefully. When sewing the collar 
on finish with a one-inch bias facing. Face the surplus front or make allowance for a hem when 
cutting. Make a band one inch wide and attach this band to the back of the blouse at the waist line, 
or when hemming the bottom of the blouse, put in ^4-inch elastic. 

Baste the cuff onto the sleeve and finish with a facing, the same as for the collar. 
If a thin material, such as Georgette Crepe, is used, employ French seams. 

This blouse may be worn with or without a chemisette. For a medium sized figure, this blouse 
will require 2 yards of 36-inch material. 

The Kimona Blouse 

The kimona blouse is very simple and easy to cut; note carefully the 
outline of the device upon the cloth. See Diagram 13. 

Adjust the Drafting Device to the given measurements in the usual 
way, and place it upon the cloth, as illustrated in Diagram 13. The two 
sections, center front and center back, are therefore set shoulder to shoulder, 
joining, however, only at the neck. This is to avoid bias in back or front. 
On the other hand, should bias be desired, place the shoulder lines together. 
It is well to lay a plait upon the cloth in front, where the dotted line 
is shown. This plait should start at the top like a dart, and be two inches 
deep at the waist line. This is to give more and needed fullness over 
the bust. 




Diagram 12. — Kimona 
blouse. 



Between the two X's on the back of the 
sleeve, as shown in Diagram 13, hold in one 
inch of fullness. This will be sufficient to 
give the elbow greater freedom of action. 

This blouse may also be made with a seam 
on the shoulder. Any style collar is adaptable ; 
as also any one of the many varieties of cuffs 
fashion or individual taste may select. Cut 
the cuff to fit the wrist, or make it the size 
of the hand measure. 

Closing may be fashioned at the front, to 
the left, or may be made in the back. 

Any material may be used, and for the 
medium sized model 2^2 yards of 36-inch cloth 
will be required. 




Diagram 13. 



-How to draft a kimona 

blouse. 



(22) 



CHAPTER V 
SKIRTS 

Dressmakers almost invariably find it exceedingly difficult to cut a skirt that will give satisfaction, 
without tiresome fittings and numerous alterations. 

The Adjustable Skirt Drafting Device, eliminates these alterations and fittings and makes the 
task of both professional and home dressmakers correspondingly simple indeed. The mechanical accu- 
racy of the device, and the ease with which it is adjusted for any figure, are two of the remarkable 
features connected with it. 

The simplicity with which a skirt can be designed and cut, that will fit any figure, will be shown 
in the following chapter, embodying both instructions and illustrations. By following these instruc- 
tions implicitly skirt making will be found a pleasure instead of an arduous task. Perfect results 
have been attained by scores of women who had never before made skirts. We have yet to learn of 
of a single failure anywhere by anyone. 

To hang a skirt properly and have it well balanced, it should be well proportioned to the indi- 
vidual for whom it is intended. All fitting must be done at the top of the skirt. It is a mistake 
to try to even up at the bottom when the top is notfitted properly. For instance, the front at the waist 
line may have been cute down too much, causing the skirt to stick out in front. It would then have 
to be lifted in the back to offset the error. 

This difficulty is never experienced when using the Adjustable Skirt Device. However, should 
there be a slight difference in the side length measurements of the figure being fitted, one side being 
larger than the other, it may be adjusted by sewing outside of the basting on the larger side and 
inside of the basting on the other. 



A TTA CH THE IA/A I3T\ 
BAR TO THE BACA Of I 
THE .SYSTEM HERE 
MING FIRST &CHEIV 



ATTACH THE HIP 
BAR TO THE BACH 
OF <S YiS TEM HERE 
UiSWG FIFTH SCREUj 



EXTRA 

EXTENSION 

FOR EXTEHOIH6 

THEWIDTHAT 

HIP OK BOTTOM 





WAIST 



HIP 



Diagram 1. — Front of the device, has the waist, hip and 
bottom bar attached. 




Diagram 2. — Back of the device has one bottom bar 
attachment. 



THE FRONT SHOULD 
HAVE THE <5CRCiY 
THROUGH THE 
DOUBLE SLOT 



Diagram 3. — The extra extension. 



ATTACH BOTTOM BARS 
TOGETHER WITH THIS SCRtlV 



BOTTOM 

Diagram 4. — Showing how to put the device together 
correctly. 

C23) 



Assembling the Adjustable Skirt Device 

The collapsed parts come as shown in Diagrams 1, 
2 and 3. 

Diagram 1 is the front section of the device and has 
* the waist, hip and bottom bars attached. 




Remove the screw marked E in the illustration, and 
arrange the Device as is shown in Diagram 4. You will 
note that the screw, just removed, has been placed in the 
groove beside the other and is now the bottom one of the 
two screws midway of the front. 

Diagram 2 consists of the back of the Device, with one 
bottom bar attached. (See the back of Diagram 4). Dia- 
gram 3 is an extension bar, used for extending the width 
at hip or bottom. 

Diagram 5 shows the Device properly assembled. 
Should any of the pieces have become detached, you can 
easily put them together by studying that illustration. 

We will assume for practice the following measure- 
ments, as for a two piece skirt: 

Waist, 27 inches; Hip, 40 inches; Waist line down to 
hip line, 7 inches; Length of front, 38 inches; length 
sides, 38 inches; Length back, 38 inches; Width bottom, 
80 inches. 

1 — The waist, hip and bottom measurements are to be 
divided by four. 

2 — Set the waist line at K, (see iagram 5), to 6% 
inches, which is one-fourth of the waist measurement, and 
tighten the adjustment screw at K. In like manner, ad- 
just the hip line at H to 10 inches, which is one-fourth 
the hip measurement and tighten the screw at H. 

3 — Now raise or lower the adjustment F, (see Dia- 
gram 5), until you have attained the waist line to hip 
line measurement, which is 7 inches. 

4 — Loosen the three adjustment screws between K and 
H, (see Diagram 5), and raise or lower the hip bar until 
it is parallel with the waist line bar, press the joints 
into an even curve, and tighten all the screws. 
5 — Set the front of the Device to the front length measurement, which is 38 inches, and tighten 
both screws. (Note: When setting the device for length measurements, always set it to the length 
you desire the finished skirt.) v 

6 — Set the back of the Device K to N, (see Diagram 5), to the side length measurement, which 
is 38 inches. To do this loosen the first screw M, above the bottom bar, and with your tape, measure 
along the curved back, and straight down to the botom, making the length K-H-M-N equal to that 
desired. (NOTE: It is always necessary to use the tape for adjusting the side length measurements, 
because only the front of the device has a scale upon it. 

7 — Set the bottom of the device at P and N, (Diagram 5), so that the total inches of both bars 
make 20, which is one-fourth of the bottom width. 

NOTE — In Diagram 5, the line X-Y across the top of the device is at right angles with the front 
and shows the front measurement to be one-half inch lower than that of the back. This places the 
waist line in correct position for the front half. Remember that this is merely one-fourth of the skirt, 
that is from front to side. 

The Drafting Device is also set in like manner for the back. 

When you have repeated the adjustment of the skirt device a number of times, and we urge that 
you do so, until you are thoroughly familiar with its workings, let us next pay attention briefly to the 
division of measurements and scales for skirt bottoms, so essential in the cutting of all skirts. 

(24) 



Diagram 5. 



Division of Measurements 

Each of the skirts to be given in the following chapter are constructed upon purely scientific, basic 
principles. No guess work is allowed to enter into the employment of the Adjustable Drafting Dff- 
vice. Inches and the fractions of inches, are used in every adjustment. You have but to follow in- 
structions implicitly to become, with sufficient practice, an expert skirt designer and cutter. 

The Division of Measurements, given herewith, is conceded by leading professionals to be the 
best that is known and insures perfect proportions to each individual. Tested and tried, you will find 
accuracy and, both time and labor saving, its paramount features. 

For division of waist and hip measurements of from 15 to 58 inches, and from a one-piece skirt to 
one of fifteen gores, (all of which will be dealt with more carefully in the following chapters), refer to 
the table of Divisions herewith. 

A scale of medium widths for the bottoms of skirts which we have added, also will be found of 
inestimable value in determining the width of gores, when you have decided according to preferred 
style and individual taste, the number which you desire. 

If a narrower skirt is desired, subtract from, and, if a wider, add to the number of inches given 
for each gore, except in the front gore or panel (which should always carry out the proportion shown 
in Diagram 26, page 32). 



15 to 


36 




ivided 


by 




4 




Equ 


6 




i 


8 




( 


10 




< 


12 




« 


14 




i 



37 to 58 
Divided by 

4 

6 

8 

10 
12 
14 



Equals 



15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 














































3£ 


4 


4/4 


4/z 


4% 


5 


5/4 


5/2 


5K 


6 


6/4 


6/2 


6fc 


7 


7/4 


7/z 


7% 


8 


8/4 


8/2 


8 3 /4 


9 


2/z 


VA 


1% 


3 


3/s 


3/3 


y/, 


3% 


3% 


4 


4/ 6 


4/3 


4/2 


4 l / 3 


4% 


5 


5/6 


5/3 


5/2 


5% 


5 5 /6 


6 


l \ 


Z 


Vk 


1% 


2% 


xk 


z% 


2% 


2% 


3 


3/8 


3/4 


3% 


3/2 


3% 


3 3 / 


37a 


4 


4/8 


4/4 


4 3 /a 


4/2 


l/a 


l% 


r/» 


IV 5 


l%> 


2 


2/0 


2/s 


2% 


2y s 


2& 


2% 


2 7 U 


2 + /5 


2 9 /o 


3 


3/o 


3/s 


3*o 


3% 


3/2 


3 3 / 5 


\'U 


1/3 


l 5 /z 


VI % 


\7a 


1% 


i 3 A 


l 5 A 


rx» 


z 


Ux 


2/6 


2/4 


2/3 


2X2 


2/2 


27* 


2% 


2V4 


27 6 


Ux 


3 


l/» 


I/7 


i 3 /< 


\% 


\% 


\y? 


\h 


1% 


| 3 /4 


l 5 /; 


1^4 


\% 


1% 


I 


2/4 


2/7 


iy» 


2% 


2^4 


2 3 / 7 


2/2 


2% 














































37 


38 


39 


W 


41 


42 


43 


44 


45 


46 


47 


48 


49 


50 


51 


52 


53 


54 


55 


56 


57 


58 














































9fc 


9/i 


9 3 A 


10 


10/4 


10/2 


!0 3 A 


II 


ll'A 


ll/z 


11% 


12 


12/4 


12/2 


12% 


13 


13/4 


13/2 


m 


14 


14/4 


14/2 


6/6 


6/3 


6/z 


6% 


6% 


7 


7/6 


7/3 


7/z 


7% 


7% 


8 


8/6 


8/3 


8/2 


d l A 


8 5 /6 


9 


Vk 


9/3 


9/2 


9% 


4% 


4% 


47 8 


5 


5/8 


5/4 


5% 


5/2 


5% 


5% 


57s 


6 


6/8 


6/4 


6% 


6/2 


6% 


6 3 A 


67s 


7 


7 /a 


7/4 


3%, 


37 5 


3% 


4 


4/o 


4/5 


4*. 


4% 


4/2 


4% 


4%, 


4y 5 


4% 


5 


5X, 


5/s 


5% 


5 2 /s 


5/2 


5 3 / 5 


57,o 


575 


VL 


3/« 


3/4 


3/3 


Z 5 /n 


3/2 


3*2 


y/s 


VA 


3% 


3*2 


4 


4/,i 


4/ 6 


4/4 


4/3 


4% 


4/2 


4% 


4% 


4 3 /* 


A% 


2X4 


z% 


2X 


1% 


IX 


3 


3y w 


3/7 


IX 


3^7 


3% 


3 3 / 


3/2 


IV, 


3% 


3 5 / 7 


3^4 


3% 


3^4 


4 


4^4 


4/7 















































Scale for Width of Skirt Bottoms Dta^r-im 6 

Four (4) gore. — Front 22 inches, back 23 inches, width 2y 2 yards. 

Five (5) gore. — Front gore 6 inches, first gore 21 inches, second gore 22 inches, 
width 2^4 yards. 

Seven (7) gore. — Front gore 6 inches, first gore 10 inches, second gore 14 inches, 
third gore IS inches, width 2y 2 yards. 

Nine (9) gore. — Front gore 6 inches, first gore 8 inches, second gore 10 inches, 
third gore 10 inches, fourth gore 11 inches, width 2]/ 2 yards. 

Eleven (11) gore. — Front gore 6 inches, first gore 7 inches, second gore 8 inches, 
third gore 9 inches, fourth gore 9 inches, fifth gore 10 inches, width 2^4 yards. 

Thirteen (13) gore. — Front gore 6 inches, first gore 7 inches, second gore 7 inches, 
third gore 8 inches, fourth gore 10 inches, fifth gore 10 inches, sixth gore 10 inches, 
width 3% yards. 

Fifteen (15) gore. — Front gore 5 inches, first gore 6 inches, second gore 6 inches, 
third gore 7 inches, fourth gore 7 inches, fifth gore 7 inches, sixth gore 8 inches, seventh 
gore 8 inches, width 3 yards. 

(25) 



THE TWO-PIECE SKIRT 

We will assume, for practice, that the figure 
about to be fitted has the following measurements: 

Waist 27 in., hip 41 in., from waist to hip 7 
in., front length 38 in., back length 40 in., both 
sides 39 in., bottom width 64 in. 

First set the waist line bar to one-fourth of 
the given waist measurement, which would be 6J4 
inches, and tighten the screw. Follow this by ad- 
justing the hip line bar to one- fourth of the given 
hip measure, or 10^4 inches, and tighten that set 
screw. For the distance from waist line to hip line, 
use the scale on the front of the device. 

Now see that the hip line bar is parallel with 
the waist line bar, and pressing the several small 
sections between waist and hip lines into an even 
curve, tighten all the screws. See Diagram 8. 





LI 



, mftxa it» mew: 



2BJgLSfM~* r-4S ?5~ 

CO.C/TH — * 



Diagram 8. — The drafting device on the fold of the cloth. 




vTfoiTdoF cloth — ' 



Diagram 9. — The device is moved back Y^ of an inch and 
the seam allowance chalked. 




Diagram 10.- 



-A 3-inch hem is chalked. 
(26) 



Diagram 7. — Two-piece skirt. 



Set the bottom line bar at 16 inch, one- 
fourth of the given bottom width. Set the 
front of the device to the front length meas- 
urement, which you will note is 38 inches, 
and the back of the device to the side length, 
which is 39 inches. When setting the 
Drafting Device to any given length meas- 
urement, always let it be to the length of 
the finished skirt. 

The front of the device is now placed 
upon the fold of the cloth, as illustrated 
most clearly in Diagram 8. Chalk in the 
outline, and moving the device over Y\ inch, 
mark again, thus making the allowance 
necessary for seam, as in Diagram 9. A yi- 
inch seam at the waist line is sufficient. 
Moving the Device down 3 inches, as in 
Diagram 10, you provide for the necessary 
hem at the bottom of the skirt, cut on the 
outside chalk line, as in Diagram 11. The 
inside chalk line lis, of course, the exact 
size of the figure, and should be followed 
carefully when sewing seams and turning 
the hem. 

Having thus cut out the front half of 
the skirt, leave the Device just as adjusted 
for the front half, except that the front of 
the Device, which is now become the back, 
must be set to the back length measure- 
ment of 40 inches. (See Diagram 12.) 

Now placing the back of the Device, 
which was formerly the front, upon the fold 
of the cloth, proceed in exactly the same 
way as for the front half. 




To Cut a High Waist Line 

Measure the number of inches you desire 
above the waist line and draw a line parallel 
to the waist line, extending one-half inch be- 
yong the waist line on each side. Curve to 
the natural waist line, as shown in Dia- 
gram 13. 



Diagram 11. — Cut on the outside chalkline. 




FOLD OF THE CLOTH 
Diagram 12. — The back of the two-piece skirt 



H 




Tailor tacks, 
or 

Tracing threads 



Overcasting. 
Basting. 
Diagonal basting. 



Running stitch. 
Uneven basting. 



Binding. 



Chain Stitch. 



WA/STL/ 




Diagram 14. 



Diagram 13. — How to 

draft a high waist line. 

MAKING A TWO-PIECE SKIRT 

After chalking in outlines, the first step 
properly, when making a skirt, is to trace all 
seams and hems. The best method of doing 
this is by employing Trace Threads, or as some 
call them, Tailor Tacks, which is done as fol- 
lows: After having laid out your garment 
with chalk, in the usual manner, cut out your 
cloth. Then using a basting thread doubled, 
for this leaves a heavier mark, proceed to 
baste through both thicknesses of cloth, wher- 
ever your chalk lines show, alternating one 
large stitch and two short stitches, as shown 
in Diagram 14. The long ones should be 
sufficiently loose to permit of a pencil or little 
finger being slipped under them. 

Now cut through the middle of the long 
stitch, and separating the cloth slightly, clip 
the small stitches in between. See Diagram 14. 



(27) 




Diagram 15. — Placket with the extension cut in 
the seam. Placket with the facing sewed to 
the seam. 



Where there is any bias, all seams must be stayed, or reinforced, with other material. A strip 
of cambric, or any firm thin material, cut lengthwise, one inch wide, and sewed in with the seam, 
will be found a most excellent stay. 

Staying Seams 

Pin your cloth and stay together, and be careful to have the cloth a trifle looser than the stay. 
This keeps the cloth from stretching when you have finished. 

Beginning at the top, baste to the bottom, taking stitches through the three thicknesses. 

Finishing a Seam 

When an inside seam is finished neatly, it adds greatly to the workmanship as well as to the wear 

of the garment. 
Binding Seams 

For this purpose use a narrow silk ribbon seam 
binding (obtainable at any notion department), or 
bias strips of lining or silk, cut in ^-inch widths 
and sewed together. This will make a neat finish 
and will also be very serviceable. See Diagram 14. 

Overcasting Seams 

Overcasting is a short slanting stitch, accom- 
plished by working the needle from right to left. 
See Diagram 14. This is to keep raw edges from 
raveling. Always start at the bottom and work up- 
ward. By this means all the bias threads will be 
held down smoothly with the basting thread. 

Plackets 

Plackets may be finished in various ways. When it comes under a plait or in a seam, make it 
about eleven inches in length, or sufficient to permit the average woman to slip the skirt over her 
head. If facing is to be sewed on, or where an extension is allowed on the seam (See Diagram 15), 
always use a piece of straight material, such as cambric, lawn or silk, for a stay, depending upon the 
nature of your goods. 
To Stay the Cloth in a Placket 

Cut your facing material to a width of 2^ inches, and proceed to face both upper and under sides 
of your placket. When this is completed, fold the cloth over the stay, sew neatly and press. You 
will then have a well finished placket, such an important detail with the completed garment. 

Use placket fasteners or hooks. When the former are employed, however, cover the ends where 
sewing threads appear, with seam binding or a piece of silk. This makes a neat finish. 
How to Finish a Hem 

Having already, by means of tailor tacks or tracing thread, traced the correct length of the skirt, 
as ascertained and chalked, you first turn the hem upon the trace line, basting with a small running 
stitch. See Diagram 14. 

When the hem is ready to sew, if it is to be stitched with a sewing machine, place the cloth 
right side up on the machine and carefully follow the basting threads marked to insure an even 
width, or you may sew the hem down by hand, using a slip stitch, that is, just catching the thread 
in the cloth sufficiently deep to hold, but catching it more deeply into the hem. For silk or satins, 
this will give you a better looking hem. 
Belting, and How to Sew It Into the Waist Band of a Skirt 

The high waist line makes it necessary to us? regular belting, of a width to correspond with 
your waist line. A tall figure would require a width of 2^2 inches to 3 inches; whereas, a stout, 
short figure will find 1 inch to 1J4 inches of ample depth. 

There are numerous ways in which this may be accomplished, but ,in my experience, I have 
found that turning the cloth over the belting and finishing it on the reverse side, with seam binding, 
gives a much better looking finish and leaves no seam between outside and belt to cause a ridge, so 
annoying and noticeable from the mark it leaves when pressing. 

(28) 



THREE-PIECE SKIRTS 

Sometimes we find a figure that measures more around the waist in front than in the back, owing 
to a fullness of flesh in front. To overcome this when cutting a two, three or four piece skirt, make 
the front from a half inch to an inch wider than the back, or as much as is necessary to place the side 
seam in its proper place to carry out the right proportions of the skirt and place, the side line in the 
correct position on the body. 

The Three-Piece Skirt No. 1 

Let us use, for practice, the following assumed measurements, although any other may be sub- 
stituted. Design both three-piece skirts, Nos. 1 and 2, to the same measurements. 

Waist 27" Front length 38" Back length 37" 

Hip 41" Side length 37" Width of bottom 90" 

This three-piece skirt has a one-piece front or back, which is laid out and cut in precisely the same 
manner as in the two-piece skirt. 

For the one-piece back place the device upon the fold of the cloth, allowing 3 or 4 inches for 
gathers at the waist line, if gathers are desired. ! 

For the front two pieces, lay the device far enough back from the edges of the cloth for a hem 
down the front; a 3-inch allowance will make a lj/^-inch hem. This may be stitched and finished 
with a row of buttons, as illustrated in Diagram 21, for the front of the four-piece skirt. Add pockets 
and belt. This makes a highly serviceable and good looking garment. 

The Three-Piece Skirt No. 2, with Closing to the Left 
For the three-piece skirt shown in Diagram 16, set the drafting 
device the same as for the two-piece skirt. 

Open up the cloth and lay it right side down upon the table. Meas- 
ure in 6 inches from the farther side of the cloth and fold over as shown 
in Diagram 17. Then turn the device upside down, placing the front 
of it, which becomes the center front of the skirt, upon the fold of the 
cloth, as shown in Diagram 17. 

X 




Diagram 16. — 3-piece 
skirt with plait on 
the left side. 

Place point A 2^ inches in 
from the front of the device at the 
waist bar, also point B 4J4 inches 
in from the front of the device at 
bottom ; draw a straight line con- 
necting A and B, and a parallel 
line \]/z inches from this one, as 
shown in Diagram 17. 

Chalk around the outside of the 
device. 

Move the device over % of an 
inch for seam allowance, then drop 
it 3 inches for hem. 




note . - 

• PATTECJ1 • 

• UPSIDE VOY1H 
■ ON ■ CI-OTH • 



CLOTH 



"V 



^ 



Diagram 17. — Showing a six-inch fold with the device on 
the cloth. The front of the device is the center front 
of the skirt. 



u 


■-■ 


■■— —• ■■— ■— ■— ■— 


.._ 




3 


i B 




Ai 






Jul 








Hr^ 














CLOTH 





Diagram 18. — Cutting on outside chalk line. 

(29) 




Diagram 19. — Showing 1 J/2 -inch allowance turned under, 
and piece of cloth placed under the fold and pinned. 




Remove the device and cut as 
shown in Diagram 18. 

Place a few pins along the fold 
of cloth to retain the center front 
of the skirt. 

Fold under \ l /i inch allowance 
and place the straight edge of the 
remaining cloth right side up, far 
enough under this fold to allow 
for stitching, and fasten with pins, 
as shown in Diagram 19. 

Lift the cloth by the folded edge 
and turn it over. Cut the remain- 
der of the front half, following the 
edge of the cloth you have pre- 
viously cut. See Diagram 20. 

This finishes cutting the front 
half of this three-piece skirt. 

NOTE : — You may use basting 
Diagram 20. — Showing cloth turned over and remainder thread for marking, instead of 

of front half of three-piece skirt being cut. chalk. 

FOUR-PIECE SKIRT NO. 1 

For this four-piece skirt divide the measure- 
ments and set the Drafting Device in the same man- 
ner as for the two-piece skirt shown in Diagram 8, 
page 26. 

After placing the device upon the edge of the 
double cloth, and far enough back to permit of a 
suitable hem down the front, precisely as suggested 
for the three-piece skirt No. 1, chalk all around the 
outside of the device, and again, to allow sufficient 
width for seams and hems ; Y\ of an inch will suf- 
fice for seams and 3 inches for the hem. Before 
cutting, if a high waist line is desirable, make suf- 
ficient allowance. 

Diagram 21. — Four-piece skirt No. 1. 

For the back half of the skirt, lay the device upon the double cloth with such regard to the 
cut of the material that you will have some of the bias on the back and some on the side. That 
is, don't make the straight of the cloth follow the back or side. By properly dividing up the bias, par- 
ticularly if a striped design of material is used, a better looking skirt is certain to result. 

Now chalk around the outside edge of the device, with a second outline showing allowance for 
seams and hem, as in laying out the front half, and you are ready to cut. Baste, stay the seams and 
turn the hem, just as in treating the two-piece skirt. 




(30) 



^■B^jSf\<> 




Four-Piece Skirt No. 2 

This four-piece skirt differs from 
the one just described, in that it is 
made with a wide front and back 
gore, or panel, as preferred, and with 
circular sides. 

The panels may be made of any 
desired width, but should carry out 
the proportions shown in Diagram 22, 
and are cut precisely the same except 
in length, the front being cut to the 
front length measurement, the back 
being cut to back length measure- 
ment. 

To properly illustrate the construc- 
tion of this style of garment, we will 
assume the following medium sized 
measurements: 

Waist 27" 

Hip 40" 

Length of back 38" 

Length of front 37" 

Side lengths 37^" 

Width at bottom 72" 

Waist line to hip line 7" 



Diagram 22. — How to draft the four-piece skirt No. 2. 

For the front panel, set the waist line of the drafting device at 3 inche 
that is, one-half the actual width of the finished panel. In like manner, 
set the hip line to 4 inches, one-half of the final hip line width. The 
bottom at 7 inches, one-half of the full bottom width. Both sides of the 
device are set to the front length measurement. 

Now place the center front upon the fold of the cloth and chalk all 
around the outside as before. Then move the device over Yi of an inch 
and mark again, this time for seam allowance. If you are making a panel 
front you will want plaits instead of seams, in which case make the allow- 
ance 2 inches instead of Yx inch. Allow x /i inch at the waist for a 
seam and complete the drafting by moving the device down three inches 
to give sufficient depth for a hem. 

To get the back panel, or gore, it is only necessary to increase the 
length to that of the back length measurement, which is 38 inches. Then 
complete in the same manner, with regard to seams and hem. Make the 
same allowance for plait as before if panel is to be used. 

The side gores will then be constructed as follows : Subtracting the total width of the two panels 
at the waist line (12 inches) from the original waist measurement of 27 inches, leaves 15 inches for 
the side gores at the waist line, 7^ for each. Similarly, the total width of the two panels at the 
hip line, aggregating 16 inches, we subtract from the original hip line measurement of 40 inches, leaving 
us 24 inches, or 12 inches hip line measurement for each gore. Total bottom width of the two panels 
(28 inches) from 72 inches, leaves 44 inches, or just 22 inches for the bottom of each side gore. 

Setting the Drafting Device to the measurements thus obtained — 7j^ inches at the waist, 12 
inches hip line and 22 inches at the bottom, 37 inches front length and 38 inches back length — place 
it upon the double cloth, leaving an allowance for a seam in front, and farther at the waist line, 
probably 3 inches would suffice, to give a little bias, depending upon the material you are using. Ex- 
ercisp vour Judgment in this regard. Marking off also the same allowance for seams, as for the 
panels (or Y of an inch, both front and back), Y> i ncn at the top and a 3-inch hem at the bottom 
proceed to cut both gores at one operation. 

(3D 




Diagram 23. — • 

Four-piece skirt No. 2. 




Diagram 24. 



This style is suitable for a wash skirt, and also makes a 
splendid looking tailored garment. A slot seam can be used. 
Trimming with buttons at waist line and bottom, as shown in 
the illustration, gives a most effective finish. 
Slot Seam (See Diagram 24) 

A slot seam is made by laying the two edges of the gores 
together with the seam turned under, reinforced beneath with 
another strip of cloth, as shown in Diagram 24. 



THE SIX-GORE SKIRT 

Let us assume the skirt measurements to be 
followed in making this six-gored skirt to be : 

Waist 25" Hip 40" 

Length of front 38" Length of sides 39" 

Length of Back 39" Width of bottom... 64" 

Proceed to cut the front and back gores or 
panels first. The illustration in Diagram 26 shows 
a decidedly well proportioned panel, suitable for the 
average figure and for any style of gored skirt. 

To Cut the Side Gores 

First determine the size of these gores by sub- 
tracting from the waist, hip and bottom measure- 
ments the number of inches used for front and back 
gores. Divide the remainder by four. We have 
in this instance then: 3J4 inches at the waist, 6V 2 
inches for the hip and 10 inches at the bottom. 

Adjust the drafting device accordingly, setting 
the waist, hip and bottom as above, the front of the 
device to the given front length measurement of 38 
inches, and the back, to the side length measurement 




Diagram 25. — A six-gored skirt... Note: In 



of 39. 



-^—p~z^ 


-y** 


r r 1 ■* 


r 



v 




\~\tP s 

5 (71- u 

5 life i 

/ o III H 

i 11 " « 

W " 
link i 

Sfl! o 

I G in 






1 3-IH HEM 





Diagram 26. - 

Device set 
and placed 
of the cloth, 



— Drafting 
for panel 
on a fold 



this diagram front and back gores are 
shown. If panels are desired they may 
be substituted. 

Now place the device upon the doubled cloth with the front on 
the straight of the goods and far enough back from the edge to permit 
of sufficient allowance for the seam. Then chalk in the outline of the 
device and mark off the additional widths you have allowed for seams 
and hem: }i inch on each side, % inch at the waist and 3 inches on 
the bottom. 

Cut to the outside chalk line and mark these gores with one notch, 
as shown in Diagram 25. This identifies both the gores and positions. 
The Second Gore 

Is obtained in precisely the same manner as described above to 
secure the first gore. The only exception in the adjustment of the 
device is that the front, which now becomes the back, for the device 
must be used wrong side up, is to be set to 39 inches, the back length 
measurement. 

Carefully observing such allowances for seams and hem as made 
before, cut to the outside chalk line, and notch twice to designate them 
as the second gores. See Diagram 25. 
For Extreme Hip Curve 

For a figure having an extreme hip curve, it is well to give some 
curve at the back of the second gore. How this is best done is illus- 
trated in laying out the second gore of the seven-gore skirts. See 
Diagram 27, page 33. 
Cutting a Five-Gore Skirt 

Proceed the same as for a six-gore skirt, with the exception of 
leaving off the back gore or panel, thus making the first and second 
gores wider. 

(32) 



cram 




SEVEN-GORED SKIRT 

In all gored skirts having an uneven 
number of gores, the odd one is placed in 
front. Thus, when cutting, mark it out 
first, making it any width desired, ac- 
cording to the size and style you have 
selected. For instance, a large or stout 
woman should have a wider front gore 
than a woman possessing a slender figure. 
On the other hand, the prevailing 
styles, regardless of size, may dictate a 
wide or narrow front panel. No fixed 
rule, therefore, may be laid down in this 
respect. 

When a suitable front gore or panel 
has been marked out and cut, subtract 
from the waist, hip and bottom measure- 
ments the number of inches used for the 
waist, hip and bottom of the front gore 
or panel. 

Divide the remaining number of inches 

at the waist and hip by the remaining 

Seven-Gored Skirt number of gores to be provided for, 

which in this instance is six, and you will have the individual size of each. The bottom widths of 

the remaining number of gores should be proportioned as shown in Diagram 27, and in the scale 

for dividing skirt widths at the bottom, on page 25. 

Bear in mind that the principle remains the same for all gored skirts, and the Table for the 
Division of Measurements, Diagram 6, page 25, will give the accurate dimensions in each case. 
Let us assume in the example before us that the skirt measurements are as follows : 

Waist 30" Hip 47" 

Length of front 38" Length of sides 39" 

Back length 39" Waist line to hip line 7" 

Width of bottom 2j^ yds. 

Set the drafting device at the waist line bar to 3 inches, which is 
one-half of the width selected for the panel, it being cut upon the 
folded cloth; the hip line bar to 4 inches, the half of the panel width, 
for the same reason, and the bottom bar at 6 inches, the half of the 
panel bottom width. Set the front and side lengths at 38 inches and 
lay the device upon the fold of the cloth. 

You are now ready to chalk in the outline, which must be done 
around the outside of the device. Next, mark off an extra half inch 
for a seam at the waist, or 2 l /i inches, if a high waist is desired. Then 
move the device over to the left ?4 of an inch and mark off the seam 
needed at the side. In like manner move the device down 3 inches and 
mark for a hem. See Diagram 27. 
Remaining Gores 

Next, subtract the 6 inches you have allowed as the waist measure- 
ment of your panel, from the total of 30 inches, which leaves 24 inches, 
and divide by 6, the remaining number of gores. Each of these gores 
will therefore have a waist measurement of 4 inches. 

So also subtract 8 inches, the panel width at the hip, from 47 
inches, leaving a total of 39 inches, or 6J/2 inches for each remaining gore. 

The bottom width of each gore, following the above rule, would 
necessarily be 1 1 inches. However, it is always desirable to throw all 
fullness as much as possible to the back, so we make the first gore 
slightly less and the third gore more than the average, as clearly illus- 
trated in Diagram 27. 

(33) 




Diagram X. — Showing 
how to curve straight 
side of a gore. 



Now set the device for the first gore as follows: At the waist line, 4 inches; hip line, 6J/2 inches; 
bottom, 10 inches; front of device as before, 38 inches, and back length, 39 inches. Also see dia- 
gram 27. 

Placing the device on the double material, proceed to chalk the outline, not forgetting to mark 
extra outline for seams and bottom hem. 

The second and third gores are a repetition of the first gore, except that the front of device is 
lengthened to 39 inches, the side length measurement, and the widths at the bottom increased as 
already fully explained. It is also necessary to divide the curve that is at the back of the second and 
third gores, and have some of this curve at the front of these gores. 

Now, to do this, as shown in the illustration, subtract one-half inch from the front of these gores 
and add to the back, that is, first mark a half inch back from the front of the gore at the waist line 
(see C, diagram X), and fill in the curve from the hip line to this point by means of the curved sur- 
face at the inside of the device between the waist and hip at the front. See A, diagram X. Then 
loosening the adjustment screw at the back on the waist line, increase the waist measurement at the 
back (see D, diagram X) the half inch subtracted from the front of these gores. 

Tighten the screws and complete the rest of your skirt in the usual way. 

The third gore is to be treated and outlined in the same manner. 

When the style in vogue requires an inverted plait in the back, allow about 8 inches at the back 
of the third gore. 

For High Abdomen 

Should the front length measurement be greater than that of the back, which is not infrequently 
the case, merely tip the drafting device downward in back. This enables us to retain the desired 
curve at the waist line, and insures a fitting, as perfect as though for the normal figure. 

Maternity Skirt 

Adjust the drafting device in the same manner as for the high abdomen by tipping the waist line 
down in back. It is also necessary to allow for fullness at top as well as length in front. 



THE PLAITED SKIRT 

The plaited skirt is always worn in some style or other. It may be 
merely a plait on each gore, or it may be a cluster of them on each side 
of the panel. But whichever is used, can be arranged so that they will 
be becoming to any figure. 

Sometimes they can be stitched down almost to the knee, and again, 
only down to the hip line — it is really a matter of choice and good judg- 
ment, influenced by prevailing styles. 

The illustration shows side plaits all around from the front to the 
back, meeting with an inverted plait on the back. 

Let us assume measurements as follows: 



Waist 30" 

Hip 44" 

Waist line to hip line 7" 

Length of front . 



Length of sides 39' 

Length of back 39' 

Width at the bottom 82' 

38" 




(34) 



Diagram 28. — Plaited skirt. 



Set the drafting device to one-fourth the waist measurement, which 
is 7}/2 inches. Hip in like manner to one-fourth of hip measurement, 
which is 1 1 inches. Raise or lower the hip line to 7 inches below the 
waist line and adjust the bottom bar to 20^ inches, one-fourth of bot- 
tom measurement. Front length must be 38 inches, and the back of the 
device, which is now the side, set to side length measurement of 39 
inches. 

Unfold the cloth and place the center of the drafting device on the 
crease of the sold. See diagram 29. Now lay a plait lj/ inches wide 
at the waist line, 2 inches at the hip line and 2J^ inches at the bottom. 
This is one-half of the front box plait. We have then remaining, 6 
inches of this one-fourth waist measurement, which will give six plaits, 
each one inch wide. See diagram 29. 

Lay the plaits with the straight of the cloth on top ; bias under- 
neath. Also follow the lines of the drafting device for size. See dia- 
gram 29. 

The other half of the front and back are plaited in like manner. 

The device will have to be used upside down for the left half of the 

front and the right side of the back. Diagram 29. — How to 

plaits in the cloth 
plaited skirt. 




lay 




Diagram 30. — Skirt with 
drape on the sides. 



These suggestions carefully followed will re- 
sult in a perfectly lined plaited skirt. 
Skirt With Drape on the Side 

This skirt is made with three widths of 36-inch 
cloth, cut to the desired length and basted to- 
gether. The center of one width is in front and 
is the center front of the skirt. One of the seams 
comes at the center back of the skirt and the other 
two seams come at the sides. 

Cut a belting to the exact waist measurement, 
and planning to have the skirt closing to the right 
or left, pin the cloth to this belting at the center 
front and back. 

Now gather the cloth nine inches each side of 
the center front (making a total of 18 inches) 
gathered into half the waist line and, treating 
the back in the same manner, baste to the belting, allowing the re- 
mainder of the cloth at each side to drop one yard to form the drape. 
This drape may be made less if desired by gathering more fullness into 
the waist line at front and back. Soft satins or any soft material drapes 
well in this skirt. 

a A very simple skirt to make yet very effective and becoming to 

slender figures. 



(35) 



Cascade Drape 

This cascade drape can be inserted into 
skirt seams in various ways. Just as a sug- 
gestion of how to cut it, see diagram 31. It 
may be made of the same cloth and faced, or 
can be picoted on the edge for finish. The 
cascade drape will look well on the four- 
piecs skirt, page 31. 
Plain Circular Skirt 

This skirt, although always worn more 
or less, is not really becoming to all figures. 
A very large or stout woman needs lines to 
give her a more slender appearance. Nor 
is it recommended for the very slender wo- 
man, for she needs more width, such as 
would be obtained by plaits or gathers. 

But the woman that Nature has blessed 
with a well proportioned body and a ma- 
jestic carriage will look wonderfully well 
gowned in a circular skirt. 

— Ir—lh 





Diagram 31 — Skirt with cas- 
cade drape on the side. 

How To Lay It Out 

Waist 26" 

Hip 40" 

Waist to hip line 7" 

Length of front 38" 

Length of sides 38*4" 

Length of back 39" 

The plain circular skirt may be cut in 
one or two pieces, and have a slot seam 
down the front, this will avoid piecing cor- 
ners. Diagram 33 gives the outline on a 
width of 54-inch cloth, so it would be 
necessary to piece the cloth. 

To accurately divide the waist and hip 
measurement for the circular skirt, first see 
the scale for the Division of Measurements, 
page 25. 



Diagram 33. — Plain circular skirt. 



Divide your waist measurement by eight and set the waist line bar to one-eighth of your waist 
measurement. Divide the hip measurement in the same manner by eight and set the hip line bar to that 
measure. Next adjust the hip line bar 7 inches below the waist line and parallel with the waist line. 

Then set the bottom line bar to one-fourth of your hip measurement. The front length adjust to 
38 inches and the back of the Device to 38 T 4 — the side length measurement is 3834 — so, this adjust- 
ment coming in between, we halve the half inch, see diagram 33. You will note that this is to give 
the even circular line at the bottom. 

(36) 



Now place the front of the 
Device upon the fold of the 
cloth (see diagram 33), and 
chalk all around the outside, al- 
lowing an extra half inch at the 
waist for seam, and moving 
down three inches for hem. 
Mark again. Note there is NO 
cutting until the skirt is all out- 
lined on the cloth. The only 
change to be made on the Draft- 
ing Device is in the length. 

For the second operation set 
the front length to 38J4 inches, 
and the back length to 38J/S 
inches, as this is the side length 
measurement. Place the front 
of the Device upon the chalk 
line and mark around the out- 
side, making allowance for ^2- 




Diagram 35. — Ripple circular 
skirt. This skirt may be cut 
in two or three pieces. Our 
preference is for the three- 
piece skirt, as it requires less 
material and makes a more 
satisfactory garment. 




Diagram 34. — Ripple circular skirt. 

inch seam at the waist and 3 inches at the bottom for hem. 

For the third operation, set the front of the Device to 38^ 
inches, and the back to 39. Again as in the operation but just com- 
pleted, place the front on the chalk line and mark in your outline, 
allowing the usual l / 2 -mch seam at the waist, and 3-inch hem at the 
bottom. 

WIDE RIPPLE CIRCULAR SKIRT 

You will note in diagram 34, showing the ripple circular skirt, 
that we place the Drafting Device on the chalk line from waist to 
hip line, thus throwing out the ripple from the hip line to the bottom. 

This is largely determined by the size of the hip line, each indi- 
vidual having skirt width proportioned to her. Adjust the Drafting 
Device to the measurement, the same as for the plain circular skirt. 
A very good looking two-piece ripple circular skirt is made with a 
seam on the sides, where the side length measurements come; if so, 
allow for the seams and cut the front half. 

For the back half proceed just as for the front half, the front 
of the Device being set to the back length measurement and placed 
upon the fold of the cloth. Make the remaining two operations, 
shown in diagram 34, upon the cloth in the same manner as the front 
half. 

Or, you can have a seam front and back instead of the sides. A 
slot seam will look well. 

Adding a yoke to this circular skirt is also most becoming to a 
tall woman. 

(37) 



CHAPTER VI 
SLEEVES 

No part of a garment is more conspicuous than the sleeve; nor does anything detract so com- 
pletely from a style, or add to its beauty as does a poorly made sleeve in the former instance and the 
well made, properly fitting sleeve in the latter case. Thus, the whole garment may be spoiled from its 
improper selection or faulty construction. This must, therefor, constantly be borne in mind. 

For instance, the short, thick arm should never be divided up with straight, round cuffs. 

A becoming cuff is one that has the point going up on the front of the arm instead of the back. 
This gives length to the back of the arm. Moreover, it is always best to have a well shaped, closely 
fitting sleeve curved into the arm at the wrist, with point either on the back or over the hand. If 
cuffs are used, they will be found most becoming, if pointed or flared over the hand. A tailored blouse 
may have a mannish cuff, but never much fullness in the sleeve. A row of buttons on the back of a 
sleeve, when they are worn for trimming, greatly enhances its attractiveness and also gives length. 

For the Slender Arm 

The long, slender arm must have fullness, the length must be divided by means of a cuff, almost 
to the elbow. All trimmings should follow around the arm, transversely, never up and down. No 
points should be permitted over the hands, if it possibly can be avoided, for the very suggestion of such 
a creation will give the length you are seeking to conceal. Invariably use every means that style will 
permit to break the length. 

With these suggestions firmly impressed upon your mind, let us consider the various foundations, 
from which every variation of sleeve, for any style of garment, may be designed. 

The Two-Piece Dress Sleeve 

The Sleeve Drafting Device itself is always set in the same manner, and then applied to all styles 
of sleeves. The adjustment of the Device has already been given in a former chapter. You may 
therefore adjust the Device to the measurements desired, just as when practicing; upper and under 
armseye first; then the length from the shoulder down to the elbow, and from elbow to wrist, for the 
outside arm length; around the hand for the upper and under sleeve; around the elbow for upper and 
under sleeves, then the inside arm length. 



This done, lay the Device upon the cloth 
with back from top to elbow, on the straight of 
the cloth. Draw a chalk line all around the out- 
side of the Device, making a straight line across 
the wrist. See Diagram 1. 

The Device does not give a straight line at the 
wrist, due to the projection (see F, Diagram 1), 
which is part of the under sleeve. 

Then, also, if the sleeve measurements are large, 
as for a stout person, you will have to curve the 
lines at the top, as shown in Diagram 3, making 
an unbroken curve. This part of the sleeve fits into 
the armhole of the waist and is the top of the 
shoulder. 

(38) 




&HeX^ 



Diagram 1. — Two-piece dress sleeve. 




Diagram 2. — Tailor- 
ed suit coat sleeve 
and a two-piece 
dress sleeve. 

Pin the inside seam carefully, beginning at the top 
and continuing down to the hand. Then baste. Now lay 
the upper part of the sleeve down upon the table, and pro- 
ceed to pin the back seam from the wrist to within 1^2 
inches of the elbow. This, you will at once perceive, will 
leave a fullness in the upper part of the sleeve to be held 
in to the 3-inch space at the elbow for comfortable elbow 
movement, and assures a well fitting sleeve. See tailored 
coat sleeve, Diagram 8, page 41. 



Now conclude the drafting by chalking seam allowances in a second 
outline, entirely around the sleeve section, making these allowances; one 
inch at the front, one-half inch at the back and one-half inch on the 
shoulder, with one and one-half inches at the wrist for hem. 

For the under sleeve, place the Device as before, with the back of 
the undersleeve from shoulder to elbow on the straight of the cloth. 
See between C-D Diagram 1. Chalk in the outline, drawing a line in 
the slot, marked "undersleeve" (see D Diagram 1) for the under part 
of the armhole. Complete with a second outline for seam allowance, 
one-half inch at the back and armseye; one inch at the front and one and 
one-half inches at the wrist for a hem. When a flare over the hand is 
desired continue the lines beyond the wrist, increasing the width and 
finishing with a point or curve according to the style selected. 

TO MAKE A TWO-PIECE SLEEVE 

The first and indeed most essential thing to do when making a sleeve 
is to baste it together carefully. It is such an easy matter to cause it to 
twist around on the arm, and decidedly a difficult task to remedy, when 
once it has been done. A simple way to overcome the difficulty is as 
follows : 




Diagram 3. 



NOTE: If the sleeve has a tendency to twist, as cautioned against, raise the under part of the 
sleeve and drop the upper part of the sleeve at the wrist, on the back seam. This will overcome the dif- 
ficulty. Never interfere with the inside seam — your trouble does not lie there. 

In completion, sew your seam, trim and bind; or, overcast to correspond with the seam in the 
waist. Never use French seams in a sleeve ; they invariably draw and spoil the shape of the sleeve. 

DRESS SLEEVE WITH DART TO THE ELBOW 

Adjust the Drafting Device, as you have previously been instructed to do, and place it upon the 
cloth (see Diagram 4), the back of the upper sleeve, from shoulder to elbow, with the straight of the 
cloth. Chalk all around the outside. ' 

Then reverse the Device, placing it upside down upon the cloth. With the back of the under- 
sleeve from shoulder to elbow coinciding with that of the upper sleeve back, making one and the same 
line, as clearly illustrated in Diagram 4. Mark the outline of the remainder of the under sleeve, that 
is down from the elbow to the wrist, and up around, completing with the line through the armseye 
groove of the under sleeve. This is the underpart of the sleeve that is sewed into the armhole. 



(39) 



Now allow a 1-inch seam on the inside; J-^-inch seam in 
the dart to elbow, and ]/ 2 inch at the top. Hold in what full- 
ness there is in the dart at the elbow, partly above and partly 
below the elbow. The Diagram 4 clearly illustrates how the 
entire sleeve is traced and shows the Device placed upon the 
upper part. 

BISHOP SLEEVE 

This is what is ordinarily termed the one-piece sleeve and 
is procured as follows : 

Lay out and chalk in your upper and under sleeves, in the 
same manner as for the dress sleeve, with a dart to the elbow, 
just described and illustrated in Diagram 4. Instead of cutting 
out the sleeve from elbow to wrist, however, connect the upper 
and under sections at the wrist, marked A and B. This full- 
ness is then to be gathered into the cuff. 

If the fullness thus obtained is not sufficient to fill your 
needs, allow for more on the front of both upper and under 
inside seams. 



Cuff 





5LEEVE 

Diagram 4. — Bishop sleeve; 
also the sleeve with a dart to 
elbow. 



Having determined the length of the cuff to be used, and 
any style of cuff may be adapted to the bishop sleeve, subtract 
this desired length from the length of the sleeve you have just 
cut out. Gather most of the fullness on the top of the arm 
toward the back, or distribute fullness equally, all around the 
arm, when sewing on the cuff. 

Cutting Material 

It is advisable, wherever possible, to draw a thread before 
cutting any fine material like chiffon, or even lawn and muslin. 
This is to keep the cloth from creeping, as frequently is its 
tendency. 

TAILORED SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE 

Diagram 6. 

This sleeve is accomplished by applying the Drafting De- 
vice in the same way as for the Bishop Sleeve, with the excep- 
tion that the lines on the front seam, from elbow to wrist, are 
straightened, as shown in Diagram 6, to give less fullness at the 
hand. 



Diagram 5. — Sleeve 
with dart to the el- 
bow. Also Bishop 
sleeve. 

Make the placket at the wrist, one inch underneath the middle or 
half of the sleeve, as also plainly illustrated in Diagram 6. 

The top of the sleeve may be straightened somewhat. Reducing the 
curve at the top of the upper sleeve, add it to that of the under sleeve. The 
dotted line in Diagram 6 illustrates quite clearly what is meant. 

The armseye, too, for this mannish shirt waist may have a straighter 
line. That is, don't curve it out, as you would ordinarily, for the natural 
armseye and sleeve, but rather make it correspond with the sleeve we are 
drafting. 
Cuff 

Before cutting out the sleeve, subtract from its length the length of 
the cuff you have selected. A straight cuff, made 2^ inches deep and 9 
inches long, is decidedly the best cuff for the sleeve in question, and for 
this style of blouse. 

(40) 



,-& 



J-/ -". 




I 
0\ 



Diagram 6. — Tailored 
shirt-waist sleeve. 




V 

Diagram 7. — How to 
cut a coat sleeve. 



SUIT COAT SLEEVE 

The sleeve for a tailored suit must of necessity be closer fitting than 
the fuller Sport Coat or Top Coat Sleeve. There must be room for the 
action and natural curve of the arm, and yet, unlike the two-piece dress 
sleeve, for instance, which clings to the arm and follows its every move- 
ment, the tailored sleeve requires straighter lines, and attention must be 
given to have the right balance. 

Therefore, when cutting the tailor-made sleeve, increase the measure- 
ment around at the armseye 1 inch; at the elbow 1 inch, and at the hand 
2 inches, or more, if desired. Experience and observation of the prevailing 
styles will enable you to quickly determine these widths, for there is no 
fixed rule. 

The line of the sleeve's front, as just mentioned, must also be straight- 
ened from elbow to wrist in both upper and under sleeves. 

To do this, mark around the sleeve device from X up and over the 
top and down the back to Y at the elbow. See diagram 7. Then subtract 
one-half inch from the front on the wrist line and add the same amount on 
the back. This is done by placing a mark at C, one-half inch in from the 
front, and one at D, one-half inch out from the back. This point, D, 
retains the original length of the outside sleeve (see Diagram 7). Next, be 
sure the elbow point, X-Y, remains the same as before. Move the Device 
over to this new point, C, and continue to outline from X down to C; 
along the wrist line to D, the original length of the outside sleeve, and up 
to Y. The same procedure is followed in outlining the under sleeve. 



Now place the Sleeve Device, with the straight edge of the back on 
the straight of the cloth, for both the upper and under sleeves. Allow for 
seams and hem as in drafting the dress sleeve. There is, however, this addi- 
tional change from other sleeves. When chalking the length of the under 
sleeve, make it }4 inch longer than that of the upper sleeve, thus making 
allowance for the half inch that is held in, in the fullness from top to elbow 
as shown between X and X, Diagram 8. 

How to Baste and Make This Sleeve 

Proceed to baste the inside seam in the same manner as for the dress 
sleeve previously considered. Pin the under and upper sleeve parts together. 

Commencing at the top, hold the half inch of fullness in the under 
part, on to the upper part, between top and elbow, as clearly illustrated 
between X and X in Diagram 8. This fullness is necessary to shape the 
sleeve and make it hang properly. Moreover, this is only done in a coat 
sleeve. 

This completed, sew the seam, and, after dampening slightly with a 
wet sponge, press the seam open with a hot iron. 




Diagram 8. — Making a 
tailored coat sleeve. 



(41) 



Now cut a piece of tailor's canvas, about 5 inches deep, and lay the sleeve flat upon the table, 
pinning the canvas across the wrist. Cut out the width of the sleeve, and placing the sleeve upon the 
table, with its upper side down, as shown in Diagram 8, pin the outside seam from wrist to within \ l / 2 
inches of the elbow, and likewise from the top down to 1^4 inches of the elbow. This will give the 
three inches necessary to hold in the fullness which must be provided at the elbow. Baste and sew. 
See Diagram 8. 

When sewing the front seam, and especially if you are using a sewing machine, stitch the seam 
so that no gathers will appear. This may be done by stretching the seam when stitching so that the 
upper part will be stretched to the full length of the under part. Also in the outside seam at the elbow, 
work the gathers out when stitching. This may be done by using a large pin to keep the presser foot 
on the machine from shoving the gathers, for this would not look well in a tailored sleeve. Press this 
seam open. 

Turn and baste the wrist hem on the marked line, fasten down the edge of the hem to the canvas 
with a hemming stitch. The sleeve is then ready for the lining. 
Lining 

The sleeve lining is always cut the same size as the sleeve; but, when sewing the seam, just stitch 
inside of the basting, as it is necessary to have the lining a trifle smaller than the outside. Baste the 
inside seam of the lining first, and then the back seam. Do not press the seam open, but lay the lining 
upon the press board with the upper side of the lining next to the board and with the seams up. Press 
the seams flat. 

How To Put Sleeve Lining Into the Sleeve 

The sleeve lining should always be put into the sleeve before the sleeve itself is sewed into the 
coat. Lay the sleeve inside out upon the table and the lining also inside out upon the sleeves. 

NOTE: The sleeve is not inside the lining, but is separate, the lining on top. Pin the front 
seam of the sleeve and the front seam of the lining together. Be cautioned against holding the lining 
tightly. If it is tighter than the outside you will find yourself in a dilemma when the sleeve is turned 
right side out. 

Now pin the back seams together and sew both with a running stitch. By inserting the hand 
inside of the lining, draw the sleeve inside of the lining, turning the sleeve so that the right side of the 
lining will be on the outside. Turn in the lining at the wrist and baste to the hem of the sleeve. 
Conclude the operation by re-inserting the hand inside of the sleeve and turning it right side out, 
after which you may run a basting thread around the sleeve about five inches from the top. This holds 
the lining in place while you are sewing the sleeve into the coat. 

Where To Place the Front Seam of a Sleeve in An Armhole 

The front seam of the sleeve is placed about 2 x /\ inches in front of the under arm seam; that is, 
for the average woman. This should be more or less, as the armhole is larger or smaller than that 
above described. Indeed, a reliable method often used is that of holding the armhole from an inch 
back of the shoulder seam on a perfect bias. The point reached on the front of the waist is then 
the guide for the front seam of the sleeve. 

Sleeves for sport coats, long coats, and, in fact, all top coats, must be cut larger than the suit 
coat sleeves. That is, all circumference measurements must be increased according to the size desired. 

(42) 



CHAPTER VII 



LININGS 



THE PRINCESS LINING 



The princess lining is drafted in the same 
manner that we draft the French lining. That 
is, we complete the four waist sections to the 
waist line, as you have been taught to do, and 
then the waist line bar is removed from the 
Skirt Device, and the waist section attached in its 
stead (see Diagram 2), using the screws at the 
waist line of the waist sections for the attach- 
ment. 

The front and back lines of the skirt will fol- 
low the lines of the waist section, front and back, 
below the waist line bar. That is, the back curve 
of the Skirt Device from waist to hip follows the 
outer contour of the hip curve of the waist sec- 
tion. 

When front and side front sections are being 
attached, the Skirt Device must be used upside 
down. But for back and side back sections, use 
the Skirt Device right side up. Use your tape 
to see that all measurements are correct. 

Adjust the hip line to the given hip measure- 
ment, and likewise the width at the bottom on 
the bottom bar. Also adjust the length of the 
Device to the length desired, just as you would 
if you were drafting a skirt. Always keep in 
mind that the skirt part of a one-piece garment 
is outlined in the same manner as any skirt. 




Diagram 1. — 




Diagram 2. — Skirt device attached to the waist for a full- 

(43) 



Full length Princess lining. 

The curved line or bias 
must always be directed 
toward the back, whereas 
the straight lines are to- 
ward the front. The il- 
u lustrations give you the 
5C^ plain foundation. 

When cutting princess, 
lined coats, or one-piece 
dresses, always remember 
to make the allowance for 
size, whether they are to 
be semi-fitting, or loose- 
fitting. 

If, on the other hand, 
the tight-fitting garment 
is desired, make it just the 
size outlined with the 
Drafting Device; for that 
gives the actual size of the 
figure. 

Diagram 1 illustrates 
the plain princess lining or 
gown; Diagram 2 illus- 
trates the adjustment, and 
attaching the skirt device 
to the waist, 
gth garment. 



REPRODUCING 

The art of accurately reproducing a garment from 
fashion designs or other illustrations is one that occa- 
sions much study on the part of most dressmakers, and 
a great deal of worry, too, if the truth be but known, 
which, not unlikely, is shared by the customer. 

However, with the simple method outlined here, 
this difficulty vanishes, and the cutter, with rule and 
scale, can experience real pleasure in her work, instead 
of the trials of an arduous task. The usual hazardous 
guess work and imaginations ; associates of the inex- 
perienced are replaced with accuracy and fact, and sat- 
isfactory creations. 

Many of the present style garment are decidedly 
simple in design, and consist largely of straight lines, 
making reproduction easy. However, after making a 
selection from the fashion magazine, if there are lapels, 
collars and points, high waist line, plaits, curves or 
trimmings on front or back, each of these must be 
copied correctly, and every line, curve and point placed 







: 












< 


1 


CHPST 






\s 


Is 





F>UST 





? 



k 




0. 



r. 




WAIST 


k 







1 

0) 


\ HIP 
















Diagram 4. — Marking lines on the 
founda tion. 



Diagram 3. — Marking lines on the design. 



in the same position upon the individual who is to wear 
the garment, as is shown in the picture. 

If this is not performed accurately and perfectly, the 
garment is spoiled. Hence, the importance of a certain 
system of reproduction cannot be overestimated. 

I will endeavor to outline a method that through- 
WAI5 I ou t rny own years of experience in designing and cre- 
ative work, has proven most satisfactory and helpful. 
It is as follows: 

Having selected a design, take your rule and both 
line and cross-line the illustration. See Diagram 3. 
That is, draw a line from the neck down the center 
front; one from the neck at the shoulder point; one 
down from the shoulder tip, and another down from 
the center of the shoulder. Then cross line at the chest, 
bust and waist. If there be many curves and points, 
add more lines to help you locate them. 



(44) 






Shoulder. 



Now, having set the Drafting Device to the given measurements, proceed to draft a foundation 
front and back. Upon this, with your rule, make the same vertical and horizontal lines as those 
employed upon the copy. See Diagram 4. The location of each line must necessarily be exact. 

Whereupon, the curves, points and other features, be the model large or small, may be located 
upon the foundation, precisely as they appear upon the design. Try this, and as you progress, the 
work will prove interesting, and wonderful results will follow. 

Note, with the rule we not only ascertain points and curves, but determine the spaces in between. 
Using the eighths on your rule, substitute inches on the pattern. For instance: If the front of your 
foundation measures 15 inches from neck to waist line, and there is a lapel or rivere on the design, take 
your rule and find what proportion of eighths are employed in its depth or width. If you learn that 
it occupies %, */j or l / 2 of those eighths, it will occupy l /\, l /$ or y 2 of the inches on your foundation. 

Similarly, for locating a yoke or trimming, the Y\, l /$ or whatever fraction of the eighths covered 
in the design, will need to occupy a corresponding fraction of the inches upon your actual draft. 

A little study, and perhaps practice, will be necessary to enable you to do this with ease, but you 
will find it an excellent rule to follow. 

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS 

How To Change the Waist Line in 
Front, Working From the Drafting De- 
vice, for a Figure That Has a High 
Chest, or Is Very Full in the Bust 
See Diagram 9 

Such a figure requires the length of measure- 
ment in front all above the waist line. On the 
other hand, as a rule, she is very short under the 
arm. 

So, after setting the Drafting Device to the 
given measurements and in the usual way, draw a 
normal waist line above the one already in. That 
is, straight to the front from the under arm, as 
shown in Diagram 9. 

Note also the raised neck line in front and the 
raised shoulder line above, from the neck to the tip 
of the shoulder, all of which is plainly illustrated in 
Diagram 9. 

This will correct any tendency the garment 
might have to pull up in front. However, this 
expedient is only required in a garment that is cut 
below the waist line, such as coats or one-piece 
dresses. 

How to change the adjustment of the drafting 
device for a figure that is very short from armpit 
to tip of shoulder, and has avery long under arm 
measurement, see Diagram 10. 

In I I ^~~ J \ u - 

Diagram 9. — Changing adjustment for a 
high chest. 

See Diagram 10. 

For an instance: If the armseye measurement is 
17 inches, set the upper armseye adjustment on side 
front section to 15 inches, and the under armseye 
adjustment to 19 inches; being careful to make the 
same changes in the armseye of the side back section. 
This equalization of adjustments will shorten the 
armseye, yet retains the number of inches in the 
given measurements. See Diagram 10. 

(45) 





Diagram 10. — Changing adjustment for 
armseye. 



CHAPTER VIII 
COATS 

THE SHORT SPORT COAT 

Adjust the Drafting Device in the usual manner, except that 
the sizes of all the circumference measurements of the body are pro- 
portionately increased : at the armseye one inch, bust one inch, waist 
one inch, and at the neck one inch. 

Then place the center front of the device upon the cloth, far 
enough back from the edge to make allowance for the lapel, and for 
a lap in front, where the buttons and buttonholes are to come. See 
Diagram 2. Three inches, as given in this illustration, will ordi- 
narily be found sufficient. Bring the center front and side front 
sections together. Shoulder bars must be continuous. 

The two sections are to be separated one inch or so at the bust 
line to obtain the desired fullness over the bust. See B, Diagram 2. 

Now, with the yard stick or other straight edge, continue the 
line of the center front straight down to the length desired for the 
garment. The example illustrated in this instance is 15 inches from 
the waist line down, but you may give it greater or less depth as 
desired. In a similar manner, draw the line from the armseye down- 
ward and flaring out, as plainly shown in Diagram 2. This will 
insure a moderate fullness at the bottom of the coat. Experience 
will govern your future work in this, as in other particulars. 

Now draw a straight line across the bottom, at right angles 
with the center front, and measure up a distance of 2 inches on the 
side line, that is, at X, Diagram 2. This curve may be drawn in free-hand, or by means of the Skirt 
Device; the curve at the bottom being just what is needed, and will give the correct line. 

Allowing 13^2 inches at the bottom for hem, and providing also for seams, 1 inch under the arm 

and over the shoulder, l /i inch at the armseye and the neck, chalk in the outline. Upon the center 

front make a mark 1 inch down 

from the neck (See A, Diagram 

2), and through this point draw a 

line from the side of the neck out 

to the edge of the cloth. This is 

K to give a lower line upon which to 

^ sew the collar, and also insures by 
O 

far a better looking lapel. 

Assuming the device has been 
placed upon the cloth 3 inches back 
from the edge, make the allowance 
for the lapel and lap in front 3 
inches at the neck, 2 inches at the 
kj waist, and 2 inches at the bottom, 
and draw a line as shown in the 




Diagram 1. — Sport coat. 




diagram, 
front. 



This will complete the 



Diagram 2. — Sport coat. 



^if^INCH^i^- 



(46) 



Back of Coat 

Place the center back and side back sections together as shown in Diagram 2, with the center 
back line on the fold of the cloth. Then trace the back of the neck, shoulder and armseye, and mark 
the waist line. Draw a straight line across the bottom at right angles to the center back, and make 
the width of the garment at this point, the same as that of the front, of course minus the 2-inch lap. 
The under-arm line flaring out at the armseye should be the same length as that of the front under- 
arm line. See Diagram 2. Make the same allowances for seams as in the front and curve the line 
at the bottom with the Skirt Device, as instructed to do when drafting the front sections, and mark 
off 1 l /i inches for the hem. The sections are now ready to be basted together. 

Any sleeve desired may be used, but I strongly recommend a two-piece coat sleeve. See page 41. 

Collar for Sport Coat 

First, before cutting the cloth, cut one out of paper or muslin and fit to the neck of your coat. 
Following the dimensions given in this illustration (See Diagram 2) will give you a good looking 
collar. The corners may be rounded or pointed to suit your fancy, and the collar will roll quite 
high in the back of the neck. Add any style of be't or pockets. 
Suggestions for the Making 

Trace all seams with tailor tacks before beginning to baste. Then use tailor's canvas down the 
front, and also in the collar, cuff and belt. If a softer finish is desired, cambric or muslin may be sub- 
stituted. Some dressmakers make up without this, but I insist that a lining of some kind gives more 
body to the front of the coat and particularly provides added strength for buttonholes and buttons. 

Cut the facing according to the dotted lines marked in Diagram 2, 
and make both under and upper collar of the cloth. Do not, however, 
fail to cut the upper collar with the grain of the cloth, that is, going 
up, as you have it in the body of the coat. Sew the under collar onto 
the neck of the coat first. Then sew the upper collar on, as you would 
the facing, by laying the two right sides together. Stitch with the ma- 
chine, turn and baste carefully. 

Join the upper collar and facing separatelv, at the lapel, with a 
running stitch, taking the stitch in the collar and the facing alternately. 
The coat may be lined to the waist or full length, or it can be made 
without lining. 

THE BOX COAT 

Diagram 3 is self explanatory and shows how to place the Drafting 
Device upon the cloth, making a dart from the bust point to the shoulder. 

Spread the Drafting Device at the shoulder and eliminate the space 
below the waist line. Now, under the arm. draw a straight line from 
the armseye to the hip line, as shown in the diagram. 

To draft the back of the coat, place the center back section upon 
the fold of the cloth and the side back section close up, as you would j 
for the back of a blouse. 

Then straighten the line under the arm, to correspond with the diagram 3. Front of 
similar line drawn for the front. Both to be of any desired length. a ox coat ' 

Conclude with the regulation collar and sleeve. 

This makes a very good looking coat for a business suit. 

(47) 




A POPULAR LONG COAT 




This style of long top coat is always worn, more or less, and is particularly 
popular at the present time. Diagram 5 gives the outline on cloth, as a guide to 
follow when cutting. 

This garment is cut in much the same manner as the Sport Coat; the main 
difference is a wider allowance on the front and a shawl collar. The outlines show 
how the Drafting Device is laid upon the cloth, but the length of the coat and the 
width at the bottom are optional with the dressmaker. Set all the "around" measure- 
ments, on the body, one inch larger on the device, to allow for the greater fullness. 
Constructing under collar, see Diagram 5. 

Upper Collar and Facing (See Diagram 5) 

First sew the under collar onto the neck of the coat, and try on to determine its 
size and shape. When arranged to your own satisfaction, take a piece of paper and 
pin it on at the center back of the under collar, and on down to the bottom of the 
coat in front, and cut it. 

Then shape the outside line across the back of the neck, to the shoulder, and 
down to the bottom of the coat, making it 4 inches wide at the bottom. By following 
these instructions, you will find it a simple matter to cut the upper collar and facing. 

Any desired style of belt and pockets may be added to this coat. The sleeve that 
is shown in the illustration is to be cut in one piece, the same as the bishop sleeve, 
given in the chapter on sleeves, page 40. 




Diagram 5 

(48) 




Diagram 6. — 

Raglan coat. 

choice on the part of the 
individual, for the line 
may come anywhere from 
two or three inches below 
the armseye to the hip line, 
and also take different po- 
sitions at the neck line, 
and the length may be 
regulated to suit. Study 
the pages of any popular 
magazine and you can 
readily discover what are 
the prevailing styles, as to 
length, etc., and thus 
make it accordingly, modi- 
fying it to suit your own 
ideas of appearance and 
service. 



THE RAGLAN COAT 

Measurements for this Raglan Coat are taken in the 
usual way, but increasing by one inch all the circumfer- 
ence measurements, at the neck, bust, armseye and waist. 
The Drafting Device is set just as you would for a plain 
coat. 

Place the front section upon the cloth, 3 inches back 
from the edge. See Diagram 7. This is for the lap in 
front, that must be on all top coats. As a matter of fact, 
the device is, for this garment, laid upon the cloth in a 
way similar to that followed in drafting the kimona 
waist. The only difference being in the sleeve. 

You will notice that the sleeve line is half way be- 
tween the natural armseye and the waist line; also half 
way between neck and shoulder at center front, and half 
way between neck and shoulder at center back. See Dia- 
gram 7. Now, this is entirely a matter of style and 




Diagram 7. — Raglan coat. 



(49) 



Any style of collar, cuff or pocket is permissible, and a belt, also, may be worn with this coat. 

The cuff is cut 4j/> inches deep in front, 6 inches in the back, and extends 1 inch beyond the 
sleeve at the top, as shown in Diagram 7. 

Note also the 2 inches of increase in size, where the sleeve joins the body of the coat. The 
sleeve at the hand is 7 inches, making a total of 14 inches in diameter. This, too, may be wider or 
narrower, according to the size of the individual, and may be made with or without a seam on the 
shoulder. i 

When taking sleeve length measurements for this coat, or the kimona sleeve, measure from the 
neck to the waist line, with the arm held straight out. 

The pocket is 7 inches wide and 9 inches deep. 

The width at the bottom of this coat in front, as illustrated, is 27 inches, including the lap. 
The width of the back is 24 inches, that is, the same as the front less the lap allowance. Provide 
for all seams and a 2-inch hem at the bottom. 

Material required for the medium size would be \]/ 2 yards of 54-inch cloth. 

Collar 

Make the neck line of your collar the size of the neck of the coat. Depth in the back, 10 inches, 
and width at the bottom, 5 inches greater than the given size of the neck. See Diagram 7. 

THE TAILORED SUIT COAT 

In this instance we are to consider a medium-sized regulation coat. 
However, before laying out the sections we must bear in mind that 
the Adjustable Drafting Device, set to given measurements, gives the 
actual lines of the body, without any fullness whatsoever. It is there- 
fore indispensable that sufficient allowance be made for that purpose, 
both in front and back. That is, allowance is made to correspond with 
the size of the coat style selected, whether it be a suit coat, a sport or 
a top coat. 

So, in each of these selections, and especially in the one before us, 
increase the given circumference measurements at neck, bust and armseye 
one inch. The waist, however, should be two inches larger, or even 
more, according to the garment in mind, whether straight lines or the 
semi-fitting is sought. The sleeve also must be increased in size one 
inch at both armseye and elbow, and two inches at the hand. 

For the tailored coat sleeve, see Diagram 8, page 41, where the 
tailored coat sleeve is explicitly described. 

Following are assumed measurements, given for practice. Any 
other desired measurements may be substituted : 



Neck 15" 

Bust point 15" 

Shoulder 6" 

Around bust 42" 

Length front 16" 

Length under arm 8" 

Length of back 15^" 

Around armseye 17" 



Around waist 32" 

Sleeve 

Shoulder to elbow 12" 

Elbow to wrist IOV2" 

Around elbow 13" 

Length inside arm 17" 

Around the hand 9j4" 




(50) 




After having set the 
Drafting Device to those 
measurements, proceed in 
the following manner: 
Place the front section on 
the straight of the cloth, 
far enough back from the 
edge to make allowance 
for lapel and lap required 
for buttonholes and but- 
tons. See Diagram 9. In 
this illustration, 3 inches 
are allowed at the neck 



and 1 Yi 
waist. 

Draw 
neck, at 



inches at the 



a line from the 
the edge of the 
cloth, down to the waist 
ine at a depth of 1^2 
inches, and on a straight 
line to the bottom. This 
is the line for the front 
edge of the coat. 

Lower the neck at the 

center front one inch, and 

mark a line from the 

curve, at the side of the 

neck, to the front edge of 

the cloth. This is done 

to make the step in the 

lapel come in its proper 

place, and, moreover, is 
Diagram 9. — lne tailored suit coat. , , ,, 

^ also done on all coats 

where the military collar is not desired. Mark the bust point and waist line as taught to do elsewhere. 

Having allowed a 1-inch seam on the shoulder, and J /i inch on the side ,and \]/ 2 inches for 
hem (the width of this section is 6 inches at the bottom), continue the front and side lines to the 
length desired, using a rule or yardstick for the purpose. The illustration given shows 15 inches from 
waist line down. 

Now lay the side front section onto the cloth, noting the line for the straight of the goods; this 
is very important. Mark all around the outside and continue side and front lines down to a length 
of 15 inches, with 9 l / 2 inches of width at the bottom. Allow a 1-inch seam under the arm and 
on the shoulder, and y 2 inch at side and armseye. Mark bust point and waist line as before. 

In a similar manner, chalk in the outline of the side back section, being careful to note the straight 
line on the cloth, as cautioned above. Mark bust and waist lines, and continue side and back lines 
down to the given length, 15 inches. The bottom width of this section is 9 1 / inches. 

The center back section is placed upon the fold of the cloth for a panel back. If a seam is 
desired, let it be placed far enough back for one, and with some flare from the waise line to the bottom. 

Allow for all seams, as with the other sections, and run side and back lines down for length. 
Also mark the bust and waist lines, and allow \V 2 inches lor hem. This section is 6 inches in width at 
the bottom. 

NOTE: Mark the bust and waist lines on all four sections, so that when basting, you will have two parallel lines around 
the garment, to aid in properly basting it together. If ripple is desired at the bottom of the coat, flare out the sides below the 
waist line more than is shown in the illutration. It will be advisable to practice on paper, or other drafting material, before 
attempting to cut the cloth for this coat. 

(51) 



When the cloth for the coat has been cut in the manner carefully outlined and described above, 
proceed in the following manner: 

Cut your canvas the full size of the front section. The canvas for the side front section will 
follow the dotted line, where it is marked canvas (See Diagram 9) ; also around the armseye on the 
side back section, as shown in Diagram 9, and back of the neck, as outlined in Diagram 9. Always 
cut the canvas on the same grain as the cloth. 

This canvas is to support the neck and armseye, and to hold the coat in shape. Placing the 
canvas upon the cloth, baste it from the cloth side, using the diagonal basting stitch, then commence 
basting the four sections together, joining bust and waist lines. 

Baste from the top downward, and when completed, try on before sewing the seams with the 
machine. As a rule, tailors sew the front and side front seams in cloth and canvas separately, press 
the seams open, and join them together with a tacking stitch, which consists of one long stitch and 
a short back stitch. This is to hold the cloth and canvas firmly together. 
When Hair Cloth Is Used 

It is always best to put the hair cloth onto the canvas before sewing the latter into the front of 
the coat. The hair cloth is first cut to the size outlined with dotted lines on front and side front sec- 
tions (See Diagram 9), and may have a seam, or be in one piece, with a dart or two cut into it to 
make it fit over the curved bust. The hair cloth is padded to the canvas with the same kind of stitch 
as that used in padding the lapel, as illustrated in Diagram 10. 

Cover all the edges of the hair cloth with a piece of cambric one inch wide, and invariably cut 
the former crosswise, to get the benefit of the stiff hair in the weave. 
Padding Lapel and Putting on Facing 

This padding is performed with a succession of small stitches, through both canvas and cloth, to 
hold them together and keep the lapel in shape, as well as to prevent the canvas from slipping. For 
this purpose we use the small slanting stitch, similar to the diagonal basting stitch. The large stitch 
is on the canvas, while the small one is put through, just far enough to catch the cloth and hold the 
two together, as already stated. This is done from the canvas side. See Diagram 10. The stitches 
are put in rows about a quarter of an inch apart. After first outlining the desired size and shape of 
the lapel with a lead pencil ,and before padding, cut away the canvas, leaving the cloth to extend for 
a seam, upon which to sew the facing. See lapel, Diagram '0- Then take a flat linen tape one-half 
inch wide and baste it upon the edge of the canvas, and on the under side of the line, where the 
lapel is turned. Sometimes it is necessary to hold the lapel full, and the tape taut. This will be neces- 
sary sometimes to shape the front of the coat over the bust. First baste the tape on and then cross 
stitch. See Diagram 10. 

The tape will hold the front of the coat firm and keep 
it from sagging. Before putting on the facing, however, 
press carefully. 

The facing must be cut full length, with the same 
grain of cloth as for the front of the coat, two inches wide 
at the shoulder seam and four inches wide at the bottom. 
Note dotted line on the center front, marking facing. See 
Diagram 9. 

Place the right side of the facing upon the right side of 
the coat, and baste it on carefully. Then sew with the 
machine, after which you will turn and baste on the edge 
of the facing; the same on the back edge. 

Sew to the canvas with a large hemming stitch, and 
complete by sewing all the other seams in the coat, after 
which press the garment carefully. 

(52) 




'/ s 

Diagram 10. — Padding lapel. 
Under collar for the tailored coat. 



When making the bottom hem, put a strip of cambric, cut crosswise, inside of the hem, to stay and 
hold it. Then put on the under collar. 

HOW TO CUT AN UNDER COLLAR 

Lay a piece of tissue paper over the neck of the coat the size of the collar, and commence by mark- 
ing front "A" (See Diagram 9). "A" is I 1 /* inches from the front of the lapel; this amount is allowed 
for the step and can be more or less, according to the prevailing style. Next place a mark at the junc- 
tion of the neck line and the straight line marked for the lapel; this is shown by "E" (See Diagram 9). 
Then place a mark lyi inches from the neck on the shoulder line; this is shown by "D" in the diagram. 
Now draw the neck line from "A," following the neck line of the coat to "E"; from "E" to "D" and 
from "D" continue up to "B." The length of this line, or the distance from "A" to "B," is deter- 
mined by measuring the neck of the coat from the step ("A") to the center back of the neck. "B" is 
readily seen to be the center back of the collar. From "B" to the stand line is 1^2 inches. This may 
be less or more and is governed by the desired stand of the collar. From the stand line measure out 
2 inches to "X." This is for the depth of the roll at the center back. 

Now go back to "A" and draw a line \ l /i. inches to "X"; this is for the step. From "X" to "X" 
draw a line with a slight curve (See Diagram 9). This will give you a collar that will fit the neck of 
the coat for which it is cut, perfectly. 

A little practice will make this very easy. Allow for seams when cutting. 

Any shaped lapel or collar may be substituted for this one. 

Both canvas and cloth are cut decidedly bias. This, obviously, is to allow the stretching at the 
edges to shape to the neck of the coat. See Diagram 10. The stand at the back is stitched with the 
sewing machine, whereas, the remainder is padded similar to the lapel; stitched in rows one-fourth of 
an inch apart, beginning at the machine stitching and going out to the edge of the canvas. 

This canvas is to be cut off to the depth of the seam, upon which is sewed the upper cloth of the 
collar. The under collar is fastened to the body of the coat with a small cross stitch. If the cloth is 
firm and does not ravel, the collar may be sewed on raw edged; which will result in a smooth, flat 
finish. 

Upper Collar 

This must always be cut crosswise to the cloth, or in other words, following the same grain as 
that of the coat. Then placing the upper collar onto the lower collar, with the right side of each laid 
together, carefully baste, and then sew on the machine. Now turn and baste on the edge as for the 
facing. I 

Where the facing and upper collar join, fold under the edge of each, and placing these folds 
together evenly, make complete the jointure with a running stitch. This procedure, which has been 
more fully described elsewhere, consists of alternately taking one stitch in the facing and the next in 
the collar. Across the back of the neck, where the lining will cover, use a hemming stitch, leaving 
the cloth raw edged. 

Putting in the Sleeve 

Place the inside seam of the sleeve 2 l /\ inches from the front of the underarm seam. And, when 
pinning the sleeve into the armhole hold the inside of the sleeve to you, making it easier to hold the 
fullness into the armhole. , 

Hold some of the fullness at the back of the armhole, where the bias comes, but most of the full- 
ness must necessarily be at the front of the armhole, on a line with the chest, as shown in Diagram 
9, and designated by a star. Baste neatly and sew with ithe machine; after which carefully press the 
seam open. 

Then make a small roll or pad, using sheet wadding to shape the top of the sleeve at the shoulder 
and attach it to the seam. Bring the sleeve lining up over the roll and attach it to the armhole seam. 
You will note that the sleeve lining is first put into the sleeve, before the latter is sewed into the 
armhole. 

(S3) 



How To Put Lining in a Coat 

Sew up the front seams or darts first; likewise those in the back, if there are any. Do not sew 
the under arm or shoulder seams, until the lining has all been basted into the coat. They should be 
felled down by hand. 

Place the two fronts in first. This is accomplished by laying the coat upon the table, wrong side 
up, and pinning in the lining carefully before basting. Attach with a basting stitch the seam of the 
lining to the seam of the under arm in the shoulder of the coat. 

You may follow this by pinning ,in and basting the back lining in the same careful manner. Hold 
some fullness in the lining for needed length. 

When the lining is being attached to the hem, at the bottom of the coat, turn the edge under and 
baste back about one-half inch from the edge, that when the felling is done, the edge of the lining is 
turned back and stitches slipped underneath; an advantage that is easily apparent; for when the edge 
is pressed, no stitches will show. 

The remainder of the lining is felled down with an ordinary heming stitch. When you have made 
the button holes with care, press the lap, and on the front section opposite add your buttons. The coat 
is thereby completed. 

Any becoming style of skirt may be worn with this garment. 

When To Shrink the Body of a Coat 

When making a closely fitted coat, it becomes necessary sometimes to stretch and shrink both the 
side front and side back sections at the waist line. Sometimes the center back also should be so treated, 
when there is no seam in it. All this however is done at the waist line only, above and below, in all 
not exceeding five or six inches in depth, and in the following manner: 

After the sections have all been cut out, fold each, that is about to be treated, with the right side 
in, making a fold down the center. With a wet sponge and a hot iron, stretch the edge, and shrink in 
the center to secure the clinging curve at the waist line of the coat. This operation may likewise be per- 
formed when making cloth princess gowns, that are tight fitting. In straight lined garments, however, 
it is unnecessary. 




How To Cut a Coat With Seam From 
Armseye 

Set the Drafting Device to measurement in the 
usual way and draft a plain pattern for front and 
back. I would strongly advise cutting out a pattern 
first in this instance. 

Then with your rule, locate the position of the 
line at the armeye, and also determine the width of 
the front at the waist line on the design being repro- 
duced. Shape the bust by taking a dart at the waist 
line. Also put a dart in the back, drawn in lines as 
in Diagram 11, and cut out the pattern, making 
due allowance for seams. 



Diagram 11. — Coat with seams from armseye. 

(54) 



CHAPTER IX 
CAPES 

Military Cape 

To get the proper dimensions for this cape, measure around 
the neck in the usual way and increase the neck measurement by 
adding two inches. Measure around the chest, and over the arms 
with the arm straight down by the side and continue around the 
back. 

Now adjust the Skirt Device to those measurements, just as 
you would for a two piece skirt. Set the waist line bar to one- 
fourth of the increased neck measure. Set the hip line bar to one- 
fourth that of the given chest measure, and adjust the device to 
whatever length of cape has been determined upon. 

Open up the cloth and fold it cross-wise for length, (provid- 
ing the grain of cloth will allow doing this.) Place the straight 
edge of the Drafting Device, which is the center back of the cape, 
upon the fold for the back length, (See Diagram 2) ; the device 
must necessarily be reversed for the other half. 

Trace the line for the shoulder, (see A, Diagram 2), and drop 
the neck line in front one inch. (See B, Diagram 2.) This 
departure is designed to give the right curve at the neck. Note 
the dotted line is the Old line. 

It might be well before cutting this cape out of cloth, to first cut a paper pattern, or one out of 
muslin ; to be sure you have the correct dimensions, and also get the requisite experience in cutting. 

Note also the dotted line down the front for facing. The collar is cut on the cape and is outlined 
and cut in the same manner as a high waist line on a skirt, and is also faced on the side next to the neck. 

The material required for this cape will be 2!4 yards, 54 inches wide, for one yard in length. 
II 




Diagram 1. — Military Cape. 




Diagram 2. — Military Cape. 

(SS) 



Circular Cape 

The circular cape (see illustration), is cut with the skirt Draft- 
ing Device in a manner similar to that employed in a circular skirt. 

The measurements for this and all capes, are taken in the same 
way as were the measurements for a military cape, and always increas- 
ing the actual neck measurements two inches. 

Now divide the increased neck measurement by eight and set the 
waist line bar at one-eighth of the neck measurement. Then divide 
the chest measurement by eight and set the hip line bar at one-eighth 
of the chest measurement. 

Set the width for the bottom at twice the size for which you have 
set the chest measure. This may be spread at the bottom if a ripple or 
more width is desired. Adjust to whatever length is wanted and pro- 
ceed to cut. (See Diagram 4.) 

The amount of material that will be required necessarily depends 
upon the length of the cape. However, it is quite certain to require a 
54-inch material, whatever the length may be. 

Provide for seams and two inches for hem. Also allow a hem at 
the front, or a seam for facing, when cutting. 

Collar 

You may put a straight collar on, or one shaped as shown in the 
diagram. This collar is six inches deep in the back ; length the size of 
the neck of the cape, and longer at the outer edge than the size of the Diagram 3. — Circular Cape. 
neck. 





Diagram 4. — Circular Cape. 

(56) 



CHAPTER X 




Diagram 1. — The 

tailored dress. 



TAILORED DRESS 

This tailored dress can be made of Serge, Gabardine, or any light weight 
material desired, or, of linen for summer wear. 

Proceed to adjust the Drafting Device to your, or given measurements, 
and place it upon the cloth in the usual manner. Cutting out the yoke first 
allow a seam of two inches in front, as illustrated in Diagram 2. 

The yoke itself, as shown here, is 6 inches deep; but it must be remem- 
bered, that the size may be regulated to accord with style and the taste of the 
individual. At the center back, the yoke is 6 inches deep, and is 4 inches deep 
at the armseye. (See Diagram 2.) Make the usual seam allowance at the 
shoulder and armseye, and at the bottom of the yoke. ( Proceed to cut the 
skirt part as follows: 

Turn back the edge of the cloth at center front two inches as hem allow- 
ance, and for buttons and button holes. Measure the width of the yoke, where 
it joins the skirt, and lay a three-inch box plait in such a position that the center 
of the plait will come exactly in the center of the half yoke. (See Diagram 2.) 
This box plait will require 9 inches of material. Pin the plait carefully the 
remaining full length of the garment and baste. 

Next the yoke must be pinned on to the skirt part ; meanwhile allowing a 
liberal seam at the top of the skirt underneath the yoke. The object of this 
being for a let out, should it be found necessary, which not infrequently hap- 
pens. The individual for whom the garment is made, may be very deep 
chested ; or above the average fullness in bust measure. It would then be need- 
ful to drop the front, which is permitted by the seam in question. A 2-inch or 

2j^-inch allowance, in some instances, is 
not a bit too much for such a shaped 
form. Slender flat busted figures, on the 
otherhand, do not require this precaution. 

When the yoke is carefully pinned 
onto the cloth, and after the plait is 
basted; place the center front and side 
front sections of the Drafting Device, 
with the center front of the Device on 
the center front of the material and 
mark the arm hole, under arm and waist 
line. (See Diagram 2.) 

Then using your yard stick, draw the 
lines from the armseye down the full 
desired length of the skirt; making the 
width according to the size of the lady, 
or in conformity with the prevailing 
style. The width in this diagram, when 
the plait is basted down, is approxi- 
mately 22^2 inches. Mark for hem 
and all seams, and proceed to cut out 
the front. Both sides of the front are 
executed in the same way. (See Dia- 
gram 2.) 







(57) 



Diagram 2.-— The tailored dress. 



Back Section 

Unfold the cloth and place it upon the table wj tn t he right side up, as in front. Lay the box plait 
for the back, so that the center of the plait will co me exactly in the center of the half yoke. ( See Dia- 
gram 2.) This plait will also require 9 inches of m ate rial, and as often happens, if it is found necessary 
to piece the cloth, do so underneath this plait. 

Now pin and baste both plaits from yoke to bottom, and lay the yoke on and pin. Fold the 
material on the crease in the center back, with the re verse side out, and pin the two sections together care- 
fully. Place the Drafting Device upon the back in the same manner as for the front, the center back 
of the Device to the fold of the cloth at the center back. Mark the armhole, under arm and waist 
line, and draw the line for length; regulating the width of the same, as you did for the front; 22^2 
inches, with plait basted in. (bee Diagram 2.) Fo r the medium size woman, this gown will require 
four yards of 54-inch material. Side plaits may be used instead of box plaits. 

All garments: blouses, coats or dresses, that have yokes, are all operated in the same manner as 
above. Any shaped yoke or style of collar may be used ; also any style of sleeve. The close fitting sleeve 
however, will look best in a tailored gown, especially the dress sleeve with dart to elbow. (See page 39.) 

The sailor collar, (illustrated in Diagram 2), will prove a very becoming shape for any who desire 
a V neck. A stock collar will perhaps be more suitable for a thin neck, or for winter wear. 

The belt in the illustration is 2 inches in width; length to suit. 
How to Make Button Holes 

First determine the size of the button hole by measuring the diameter 
of the button. Then mark the spaces where the button holes are to come; 
setting the button hole shears to the size desired. Cut from the right side 
of the cloth and at a little distance from the edge. 

Overcast with a coarse thread first, and complete with the button hole 
stitch. This is made by putting the needle into the cloth from the under 
side, through to the upper, and throwing the thread over the needle from 
you. Now pull the needle through and make the stitch tight, showing 
the purl. 

Each stitch must be taken in the same manner, of uniform length and 
distance apart. Diagram 3. — Button 

A tack may be worked on the inside end. When finished this will look holes. 

decidedly neat. To do this, take three stitches, one over the other, using the button hole stitch if 
desired, or just a plain stitch taken over the threads, and making it look like a twisted cord when com- 
pleted. 

Tailored Button Holes 

First space the button holes apart, the distance desired, and mark the size of each, after measur- 
ing the diameter of the buttons you are about to use. Make two rows of stitching with the sewing 
machine; one on each side of the mark made for the slit. Then with the button hole punch, make a 
hole a short distance back from the edge of the garment, cutting the length desired for each, between 
the stitching. ', 

Overcast with sewing silk. Now make a cord by twisting four strands of button hole twist 
together, or using regular button hole guimp, the color of the twist, and fasten the end of this cord into 
the end of the button hole, between the cloth. 

Then holding evenly along the edge, and just tight enough to make the button hole smooth, make 
the regular button hole stitch. Take each stitch evenly, and tight enough to make an even purl on the 
upper edge of the button hole. (See Diagram 3.) 
Sewing on Buttons 

When sewing buttons onto a tailored garment, it is first advisable to put a piece of cloth, or lining 
on the under side to strengthen the cloth. This is to prevent the button from pulling out of the cloth, 
leaving a gaping hole in the garment. 

(58) 




Buttons that are sewed on through holes, should always have a shank. This may be obtained by 
leaving the thread loose between the button and the cloth, and, when sufficient thread has been put 
through to make a good anchor, wind the thread around these strands, betwen the button and the cloth, 
until the shank appears stout enough, when you will fasten the end and cut the thread. Following these 
instructions, your buttons will hold securely and invariably look well. 

Always sew on buttons with strong thread to attain best results. The thread may also be rubbed 
over lightly with tailors' wax. A suggestion that needs no comment. 

In spacing the distance you want the buttons apart, we recommend the use of tailor's chalk or bast- 
ing thread. One cannot be too careful in this work ; for, it is a comparatively easy matter to get them 
uneven, and dire results are certain to follow. 



CHAPTER XI 
HELPS TO THE HOME DRESSMAKER 

Among the first and essential things the home dressmaker should become familiar with upon 
taking up the actual work of dressmaking, are the common stitches ; what they are termed and how 
they serve. These may be briefly summarized as follows : 

Bastings 

Are temporary stitches put in to hold the fabric together until the finishing stitches can be made. 
(See Diagram 14, page 27.) 

Do not take too long a stitch in basting. It is likely to slip and shove before the presser foot of 
your machine, causing endless difficulty. The short even stitch looks better and does better. 

If cloth is to be basted on canvass, use the diagonal stitch. (See Diagram 14, page 27.) This stitch 
holds them together firmly and looks well when finished. 

Overcasting 

Is another stitch, ignored by many home sewers, but withal both decidedly workmanlike and ser- 
viceable. If you would have your work look neat, either overcast or bind the seams. (See Diagram 14, 
page 27.) 

Running Stitches 

Are shorter than bastings. The stitches and spaces in between are of equal length. This kind is 
used when seams do not require back stitching. 

Diagonal Bastings 

Are slanting stitches used a great deal in dressmaking to secure the outside material to the inside 
lining or canvas. Then we have the even stitch, made in uniform short lengths and secured at the finish 
with two stitches taken over the last one made. 

Uneven stitching, as the name implies, are of various lengths and put in in the same manner as for 
the even variety. The length of the stitch is a third to a half greater than the space left between 
stitches. Combination stitches, consist of alternating both even and uneven stitches. That is, a long 
stitch and two short ones. Additional firmness is gained by this style of basting. 

Binding Seams 

When binding a seam with the regular seam binding, it will be found to sew on much easier, and 
look smoother, if it is first creased in the center with a warm iron. Always sew on from the right side; 
making a short stitch on the right and a longer one underneath, as in Diagram 14, page 27. 

Shoulder Seam 

The shoulder seam should always be turned toward the front, unless pressed open. This is to pre- 
vent the seam from having a drawn or tight look. 

(59) 



Threads for Basting 

Use coarse, white basting cotton, No 40 or 50, for ordinary materials. It will hold the cloth firmer 
and keep it from slipping. For thin goods, use No. 60 or 70 basting cotton. 

It is best to baste Taffeta or Soft Silk with sewing silk. This is not so apt to cut or leave holes 
in the delicate fabric after the threads have been removed. 

When taking out, cut basting threads, DO NOT pull ruthlessly. Many a fine garment has been 
cut and ruined by the thin, tough thread. The better way is to clip in small sections before removing. 

Pressing 

To press WOOLENS, lay a wet cloth, preferably cotton, on the garment just where you want it 
pressed. For seams it is even better to use a squeezed-out sponge. 

Lay a square of good tailor's canvas on cloth about to be pressed ; indeed, this makes ideal sponging 
material, and will keep the cloth from becoming shiny or marked. Rub the wet sponge over its surface. 
It is best to use a hot iron for pressing. The reverse is true in pressing silk. A very hot iron will 
take the life out of a silken fabric. It is then liable to crack, and is virtually worthless, as many a gar- 
ment has become, the blame, however, being placed upon the silk, when it rested entirely with the 
presser. 

Sponging and Shrinking Woolens 

Take five yards of unbleached muslin, or a sheet, if the other is not obtainable, and wring it out 
of cold water. Then laying your woolen goods as it came from the store, full length, and folded 
double, cover the fabric with the wet cloth and rail up the entire material, letting it remain for several 
hours, or over night. 

When removing out of the sponge, hang the goods upon a clothes line to dry. DO NOT press 
with a hot iron, or you will hopelessly mark it and render it liable to shininess under the slightest 
wear. Slow natural dry, is always best. It is then ready to cut. 

Shrinking White Wash Goods 

Lay the material in a pan of cold water and let come to a boil. Then hang up to dry. When 
but a suggestion of dampness remains Press with a hot iron and it will appear as well as before putting 
into the water. 

Setting Color 

A little salt in the water will set the color. Such shades as lavender, pink, blue or green, should 
be dried in the shade, to prevent fading. 

When tracing seams on silk, do not use a tracing wheel; it will cut the silk. Tracing with a 
colored thread will give satisfactory results. 

When making a skirt that has plaits or a stitched welt seam, leave one seam unbasted until all 
the other seams are stitched. The back seam, if there is one, is the best to leave open. 

When sewing soft silks, crepe, chiffon or any thin material, stitch on paper; this will prevent the 
seams from puckering. 

A rule that is often followed when basting a sleeve into the armhole is to measure one inch back of 
the shoulder seam, then fold the armhole at this point and put the inside seam of the sleeve where the 
fold of the armhole comes in front. This may help someone that has had difficulty along this line. 

When cutting a waist lining fold the cloth crosswise and have the waist line running perfectly 
straight with the grain of the cloth. This will prevent the lining from stretching out of shape. Cut 
the sleeve lining on the lengthwise of the cloth. 

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CHAPTER XII 
HOW TO DRESS WELL AND BECOMINGLY 

I am now talking to the woman with a moderate income and yet finds it necessary to look well 
dressed. 

First, decide how much you can spend on your gown. It may be that you can only have one 
gown in a year. If so, my advice is, and always has been, to have the best material you can afford. 

Next, choose a medium style, and have it well made. I have known women who always looked 
well dressed and yet they had but one tailored suit, one becoming afternoon or evening gown and a 
few good blouses, in a year ; in fact, I have known some of them who wear their tailored suit two or 
three years. I have heard these women say, "I cannot wear my suit out; it is just as good as the day 
it was made." The reason for this was, good material, medium style and well made. 

If you have never made a study of the lines of your own body, or the shape of your face and the 
color of your hair and eyes, it will be well for you to begin now, because these have much to do with 
the style of your gown and the colors you should wear. 

It is a pity, with the beautiful colorings and variety of style we have at the present day, for any 
woman to be unbecomingly dressed; for, do you know, it matters not whether it is calico or silk, if the 
colors and design are becoming you will look well dressed. 

The long, thin face should never, never wear a pointed or a V yoke ; not even a V opening in the 
blouse; they make the face look just as long again. The long, thin face should always select a round 
or square yoke; a round or square collar, or, if style will permit, a standing collar as high as can be 
comfortably worn. 

Just imagine, if you can, a woman with a large round face or square jaw, wearing a square or 
round yoke. Her face would look more than ever, broad and masculine. She must have the V yokes 
and pointed vests. If she wears a collar it should be pointed. If a standing collar is worn it must 
be small. A bit of lace wired at the back of the neck is a good suggestion. 

"Oh!" but you will say, "I have no imagination; I cannot see myself dressed up like the picture." 
If you cannot see yourself in the picture, begin to study in this way: When you meet women who appeal 
to you as being well dressed, and they are tall and slender, or short and stout, as you are, recognize the 
perfect lines that make the gown becoming. Notice the artistic drape and say to yourself: "That lady 
is just about my size; her coloring is like mine; I would look well in a gown like that." I do not mean 
for you to copy, but to study others that you may develop originality and this will help you. You will 
find it a very interesting study and you will soon be surprised how easily you can plan a becoming gown 
for yourself. 

Colors 

Colors also play an important part. Let us talk about the color of your hair and eyes and suggest 
what would be becoming. "Oh dear!" I can hear some one say, "I suppose my next gown will be 
blue ; I have worn blue all my life. I would so like to have a change but I do not know what color 
to choose." 

If you have blue eyes and blond hair you can wear to advantage black, black and white, lavander, 
golden brown, tobacco brown, royal purple, wisteria shades, old rose toned with black, dark green, 
bottle green, grass green, emerald green, some shades of gray with a touch of blue to bring out the color 
of the eyes; rather select the color that will add strength and tone to the color of both your hair and eyes. 

If you have blue eyes and dark hair you can wear greens, grays, yellow, red and soft pastel shades. 
Just a touch of blue will sometimes bring out the color of the eyes if your complexion will permit you 
to wear blue. The brunette with the dark eyes will look her best in red, tan, corn colors, gold and 
silver nets, gray, toned with red or gold, and rose toned with black. Navy blue may also be worn. 

A little study, a careful selection of colors and every woman can be so gowned as to bring out 
the charms nature has blessed her with. 

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DRAPING GOWNS 

The draping of gowns presents a large subject, there being such a variety of styles; and yet, 
when we consider them, we find they are all created from a foundation, and our foundation principles 
applied to one embraces all. 

Our first study on this subject, however, will be: Who can wear a draped gown and wear it 
becomingly? Only a tall, graceful figure can wear an elaborately draped gown. One less fortunate 
possessing a short, stout figure, or one who is short and slender, must be contented with a slightly 
draped garment. 

The one-piece gown that has a slight drape on the sides can be obtained by first cutting a founda- 
tion lining. This lining can be of some thin, sheer material, and may be to the waist line or a 
full length princess slip. After the lining has been cut and darts or seams basted in front and back, 
leaving the shoulder and under arm seam unjoined, place the front part of the lining flat upon the 
table and lay the cloth over it. Arrange the folds for the drapes where they come on the design, 
being reproduced, and pin in place carefully. 

The fullness for a drape in the full length gown must be caught up from the bottom before the 
length of the gown has been ascertained. Next arrange the back in the same manner and then join 
the shoulder and under arm seams of your foundation. 

With a little practice, using tissue paper, this line of work will become surprisingly easy and 
fascinating. 

The Elaborate Drape may be accomplished easier, civing more artistic results, by first pinning the 
foundation lining onto a dress form, or onto the model for whom the gown is being constructed. Before 
cutting the length, or the size, out of the cloth, pin it carefully onto the lining, arrange and pin all 
the folds pertaining to the drapes and mark the size and length before taking it off the model. After 
marking the size and length, take it off the model and, plncin? it upon the table, cut it out. You will 
find it much easier to cut even lines w T hen the gown is off the model and flat upon the table. 

THE BODICE DRAPE 

Draping the bodice for an afternoon or evening gown is also done in a similar manner to the 
full length gown. First, cut the foundation lining, using some sheer material. Then place the cloth 
or lace, which ever it may be, over the lining and arrange the folds according to the design being repro- 
duced. Sometimes the length for the drape is allowed at the top, and at other times it is caught up 
from the waist line. Which ever way this is done, the designer may, with a little practice, become 
expert and find this part of the construction of gowns very enjoyable. 

DRAPING A SKIRT 

Many of the draped skirts are very simple in the construction. The drape is just an extension 
allowed on the side seam; while others are set into the side seam in a manner similar to the cascade 
drape illustrated on page 36, Diagrams 31, 32. When an elaborate drape is desired, it may be easier and 
save time to drape it on the model for whom the skirt is intended. 

The allowance for all such draping must be made at the top of the skirt, dropping the cloth down 
in graceful folds to conform with the design being reproduced or created. Before taking the skirt 
off the model, mark the desired length from the floor, using a rule, yard stick or skirt marker. Mark 
with chalk or pins and then run a basting thread on the marks to secure an even hem. 

I hope these few suggestions will help and benefit those interested in this line of study. 

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What a Woman Can Do 

Any woman who will organize and establish a branch school where the Blackburn System 
and Dressmaking Course is taught, using the Blackburn Adjustable Drafting Device, is sure of 
having a successful business of her own. 

Think About It a Minute 

If you have completed the course as taught in any of the Blackburn Studios, or if you have 
taken the Home Dressmaking Course by mail, you are equipped to teach and are prepared to pro- 
mote an enterprise of your own. 

You Have All You Need 

in your system, text book and the knowledge you have gained. If, added to this, you posses natural 
teaching ability, your success is certain. 

Where to Begin 

Do you know of a place where women make their own clothes, or where young ladies must 
make a little money go a long way; or where fittings and alterations make home-dressmaking a task 
instead of a delight ; or where patterns cut to stock sizes are used ? 

That is the place to begin. There is the opening you need. 

Let it be known that you are prepared and equipped to teach these women to cut their own 
patterns to individual measurements; demonstrate that you have the ability and you will have no dif- 
ficulty in starting a business of your own that will pay from the first day and develop into a perma- 
nent institution. 

What Others Have Done You Can Do 

Dear Mrs. Blackburn: 

Did you imagine when I enrolled at the Blackburn Studio a few months ago that I would 
so soon be conducting a studio of my own? 

It seems incredible to me because I knew nothing about designing and cutting and very little 
about sewing. 

But now I am not only successful as a teacher but I have no difficulty in reproducing and cut- 
ting the most complicated patterns. Indeed we «re cutting hundreds of patterns to individual meas- 
ure for the department stores. 

The prospects for the coming year are good. We have yet to find the first woman who could 
not learn to cut her own patterns owing to the simplicity of the Blackburn System and Drafting 
Devise. - ^ 

Sincerely yours, 

PEARL WARD. 
310 Exchange Bldg., Los Angeles, Cal. 

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Dear Mrs. Blackburn: 

I always had a desire to design and cut my own clothes. I had a natural talent for sewing, 
but, just beyond, although sometimes it seemed almost within my reach, was the knowledge that 
would enable me to do this. Then (after investigating other systems and schools I decided your 
system was the only practical as well as the most simple I had seen). 

It gives a perfect foundation for every style of garment and (it makes teaching very simple). 

It certainly opens up an avenue to the business world that would otherwise be closed. 

It meets the need of women in every walk of life. 

Yours truly, 

KATHERINE SMITHGALL. 
Third and Hill Sts., Los Angeles, Cal. 



HOW TO BEGIN 



There are many ways to start. One plan that has been successful is to organize the ladies into 
clubs meeting afternoons at the different homes. These afternoons to be devoted to the study of the 
foundation principles of designing and reproducing and also the art of pattern cutting. 

In this way a dozen or more can be taken through the course as given in the text book. Another 
successful method is to advertise evening classes for married ladies. 

Whether you live in the country, the village or the city you have a virgin field with unlimited 
possibilities before you. 

Write for a circular that will help you organize your school, a copy of the contract protecting 
you in your territory, and the special price at which we supply the complete systems and text books 
to branch studios. 

THE BLACKBURN COMPANY. 



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